PRINT: Rock Climbing in Caddis Cliff, Estes Park Valley

Caddis Cliff

Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Big Thompson Canyon

Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023 Details

Update: per Bruce Hildenbrand: the area has been open since 2023.

Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.

Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.

I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.

Description

Caddis Cliff is a small south-facing cliff on the north side of the river. Most of the rock is rather broken up, but two bolted routes and a moderate trad line have been done. A very nice arete and a small spire in the middle of the wall make the river crossing worth the effort. The arete and the trad line are listed in BG's guide. The crag gets enough sun to offer a pleasant side trip even in December.

Getting There

Drive East 4.7 miles from the Mall Road. Park 100 yards downstream from the crag in large pullout. Wade the river or wait until it freezes enough to walk across.

L->R:

A. Prince Nymph, 11+ R/X, 1p, TR or gear.
B. Glow Bug, 8 R, 1p, 100', gear.
C. San Juan Worm, 7 R, 1p, 60', TR or gear.
D. Unknown Spire, 10, 1p, 60', bolts.
E. PMD, 9, 1p, 60', gear or TR.
F. Wooly Bugger, 11, 1p, 60', gear & bolts.
G1. Curving Corner, 8, 1p, 80', gear or TR.
G2. Orange Zonker, 9, 1p, 95', gear.

Routes from Left to Right

5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 1 ● Prince Nymph TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R 1 ● Glow Bug Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 1 ● San Juan Worm TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 1 ● Unknown Spire Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 1 ● PMD Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 1 ● Wooly Bugger Trad, Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 1 ● Curving Corner Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 1 ● Orange Zonker Trad

● Prince Nymph

5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a TR

● Glow Bug

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad

● San Juan Worm

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR

● Unknown Spire

5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport

● PMD

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad

● Wooly Bugger

5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, Sport

● Curving Corner

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad

● Orange Zonker

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

A few more routes on Caddis Cliff.<br>
A.Prince Nymph 5.11d, TR<br>
B:Glow Bug 5.8 R, gear<br>
C:San Juan Worm 5.7, TR<br>
D:Unknown Spire 5.10, sport<br>
E:PMD 5.9, TR/gear<br>
F:Woolly Bugger 5.11, sport<br>
G:Curving Corner 5.8, gear/TR<br>
H:Orange Zonker 5.9, gear.

A few more routes on Caddis Cliff. A.Prince Nymph 5.11d, TR B:Glow Bug 5.8 R, gear C:San Juan Worm 5.7, TR D:Unknown Spire 5.10, sport E:PMD 5.9, TR/gear F:Woolly Bugger 5.11, sport G:Curvin…

Caddis Cliff showing the known routes.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

allen simons

Nice photo! Are these the only two lines on the cliff? Looks like there could be several others. Allen Dec 18, 2006

Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO

Allen, we were a bit rushed and I did not look for other routes upstream. Certainly a few other trads routes could have been done, but a survey from the creek did not reveal any other bolted routes. Dec 19, 2006

boydpainting
Estes Park CO

The route names I have submitted are the names myself and the two or three people I climb here with use. No disrespect is intended to any FAs, and any info can be changed if need be. The route "Prince Nymph" may need a second or third opinion to dial in the rating. Two of us climbed it on TR and our average came out to 5.12b. Jan 27, 2010