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Routes in Caddis Cliff
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Curving Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Glow Bug T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Orange Zonker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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PMD T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Prince Nymph TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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San Juan Worm TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unknown Spire S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wooly Bugger T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
| Type: | TR, 35 ft (11 m) |
| GPS: | 40.42152, -105.22604 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 669 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | boydpainting on Jan 26, 2010 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023
Details
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
A wild, overhanging, wide fingers to bomber fists/hands crack. We elected to set a top rope (2-#3friends, 1-#7 Power Cam), after looking at the bottom half of the crack. It is an inch wide crack made up of two broken quartzite bands on either side of what would be a killer fist crack (this is the crux). The crack will take gear in the 0.5-1.0" range down low, I just wouldn't trust it to hold in a fall. There are two blocks wedged into the open book, above the crack(I trundled two more, that were on top of these two, but alas the two that remain didn't want to go.)Stem past the two chock-stones, on face holds and finish the hand-crack/ramp to the top.
NOTE:
I gave this a 5.11d-12a as that is the limit of my trad. on-sight ability,(took a couple go's on TR to figure out the moves). With traffic this line may go "ground up" as a lot of the broken quartz falls out when you shove your toes into it. Even then the bottom might be a little sketchy, since the crack is so shallow.
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