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Routes in Caddis Cliff

Curving Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Glow Bug T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Orange Zonker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
PMD T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Prince Nymph TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
San Juan Worm TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown Spire S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wooly Bugger T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: TR, 35 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 40 total, 0/month
Shared By: boydpainting on Jan 26, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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A wild, overhanging, wide fingers to bomber fists/hands crack. We elected to set a top rope (2-#3friends, 1-#7 Power Cam), after looking at the bottom half of the crack. It is an inch wide crack made up of two broken quartzite bands on either side of what would be a killer fist crack (this is the crux). The crack will take gear in the 0.5-1.0" range down low, I just wouldn't trust it to hold in a fall. There are two blocks wedged into the open book, above the crack(I trundled two more, that were on top of these two, but alas the two that remain didn't want to go.)Stem past the two chock-stones, on face holds and finish the hand-crack/ramp to the top.

I gave this a 5.11d-12a as that is the limit of my trad. on-sight ability,(took a couple go's on TR to figure out the moves). With traffic this line may go "ground up" as a lot of the broken quartz falls out when you shove your toes into it. Even then the bottom might be a little sketchy, since the crack is so shallow.


Upper tier, left side of crag.


TR on two #3 Friends, and a #7 Metolius.
The top can be reached by scrambling around the left or right side of the cliff, the right side is a little easier.


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