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Routes in Friendship 7 Wall

Every Which Way But Loose S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Friendship Seven S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Left of Seven T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Trash Can T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Armon
Page Views: 3,704 total · 20/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Jun 1, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

19 Opinions

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Park at the dirt pullout on the north side of the highway 1.3 miles west of the Beige Siphon Tube. The climb is directly in front of you to the west up the steep face. Two climbs exist. Friendship Seven is the harder route on the right. Clings, lunges, sequencial moves, lay backs, and reaches all add to the fun. Don't cheat by using the back wall.


7 bolts to a two bolt anchor with rings.


The infamous James Johnson, Nile Fedewa and Don Karle put the bolts on the left side and cleaned up some seriously rotten rock about four years ago. The route was never named. Maybe a 5.9

The route on the right, Friendship Seven, was two less bolts when we used to climb it with a very scarry start from the ground up to the first bolt which was at least 15-20 feet up. And then you had a serious 30+ foot runout to the top with the crux in between. But since, somebody has added at least two bolts to it which seriously lowered the pucker rating. 5.11a, hmm.. I dunno! The first time I went up it I was told it was a 9+ not knowing that it was just a ploy to send me up it first. It is for sure 10+ with the extra bolts as reasurance. Very fun route. Jun 25, 2004
allen simons  
That's right, Niles....I just couldn't remember his name. When I put up Friendship Seven, I put it up with friends and used seven bolts, thus the name. I looked at it recently, and it still appears to have only seven bolts, with the crux right below the last bolt. It is runout 5.6 to the top (15 feet from there). I did hear that a bolt pulled during a fall once, and Niles replaced it. As far as the rating, I was reluctant to rate it 5.11a, since I (at the time) had only climbed a bit of 5.11. I had some friends climb the route and they gave me everything from 10a to 11a. Should have been conservative and chosen 10 b or c. I do think that is closer to the routes grade. At any rate, I find it a very fun climb with good protection, hope everyone else does too. Allen Jun 27, 2004
Patrick Ackerson
Loveland, CO
Patrick Ackerson   Loveland, CO
Allen, this route is one of the best in the canyon, and the rating of 5.11a is on the money. it is far [too] sequential and pumpy to have a rating less than 5.11. Patrick Ackerson. Sep 4, 2005
allen simons  
Thanks Pat. I'm just always reluctant to rate things at a grade that seem to be at the limit of my grade of climbing, or in this case, my previous grade of climbing now that I am old and decrepid. Suffice it to say that I too think it a great climb, very fun, sequential at the top, and pumpy. al Sep 6, 2005
Loveland, Co
westy   Loveland, Co
I have climbed the left side twice now. Ever time it sends me into the crap factor because of the Vertice and slight lean back. I have been dying to know the name of this route. A 5.9 sport? I would like someone to verify if possible. Either way, it is definitely something to do. I am woking on hitting the right side and actually taking the Friendship 7.

Thanks for the great routes, people.

Todd Sep 21, 2006
allen simons  
Ya know, Kyle Kingry has told me the name of the left route at least a dozen times, and I can't remember for the life of me what it is. If you email him from this site, maybe he can tell you. I think it is 5.9, it may feel harder due to the steepness. Friendship Seven has the same steep issue but has moves to "figure out." Sep 21, 2006
allen simons  
Aaron, I e-mailed Kyle, and he is going to get the name to me. Allen Nov 12, 2006
kyle kingrey
kyle kingrey   Loveland
The name of the route to the left of F7 has escaped me. I have it written down somewhere, and I am trying to figure out who even told me the name??
As for the grade of 5.9, I personally don't think so. The start is a bit runout, some of the better holds are a bit loose and the sustained nature and length of this climb sure make it feel like 5.10
It is a great route that takes power and elegance. May 22, 2007
Dillon Sprague
Loveland, CO
Dillon Sprague   Loveland, CO
Friendship Seven- Very fun climb, mentally and physically. I would call it a 5.11, but what do I know? -Dillon May 29, 2007
Scott Matz
Loveland, CO
Scott Matz   Loveland, CO
It's been time coming on this for me, always leading Left of Seven. I finally jumped over to lead my nemesis. Tricky moves, one hard clip. Sketchy run out on the top about 25 feet, but it's 9+ from there. This climb has to be one of the best climbs in BTC, along with Friday the 14th, and Slipstreme Dihedral. Yes. Oct 2, 2008
Primo route fell a couple of times and felt the crux was killer as in killer bees! I think this needs to be climbed by someone that's solid on twelves to officially rate it. I believe 11c/d but am questionable? Solid climb and very dynamic! 2 thumbs up! Oct 2, 2008
Sam Miller
Boulder, CO
Sam Miller   Boulder, CO
BTW, falling around the last bolt may result in hitting the back wall. Solid 11a, no question about it. May 29, 2010
Dillon Sprague
Loveland, CO
Dillon Sprague   Loveland, CO
You should have told me that before I fell. Jul 15, 2010
Curt Nelson
Fort Collins, CO
Curt Nelson   Fort Collins, CO
Each clip slowly but progressively becomes harder. Above the last bolt was a bit reachy for me. A bit harder than 11a in my opinion, but super fun for sure. Apr 2, 2011
Top Rope Hero
Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.11b/c PG13
Top Rope Hero   Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.11b/c PG13
Sandbag. Could name ten 11a's much easier. Call it a fierce 11b NOT for the faint of heart. Add PG-13 for the 3000 ft high first bolt and the spooky, slam-into-the-other-wall run out at top.

Just lovely. Aug 2, 2011
allen simons  
Too funny. Hummmmmmmmn? Well, the first bolt is 15 feet or so up 5.8 climbing with an easy clip position. I figured two things in placing that bolt. First, if you can't get to that bolt, there is no way you can climb the sustained overhanging face above regardless if you call it hard 5.10 or 5.11. Second, this was the second climb that I ever bolted, and I had read a quote in one of John Long's books that his climbing philosophy was to place the first bolt high enough to "keep the riff-raff off". So, a bit of arrogance on my part but hey, it was 17 years ago and I'm less arrogant now. As far as hitting the back wall on a fall, I have three comments. First, I fell from that last bolt on lead and top rope multiple times and never hit the wall. Second, I did not put the wall there, you will have to talk to The Almighty about that. Third, that being said, it is close and my friend K.T. DeSantis even used it as a back step rest before tackling the crux on the second ascent. Cheers! Aug 4, 2011

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