Golden Hall Rock Climbing
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|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
A rock corridor between the main Mary's Bust buttress and a wall of golden stone behind it.
1) Hike up to Moonlight Rock and traverse right (down canyon) on the ledge on the top of the Left Buttress. Clamber over a big boulder that rests above The Devil's Backbone to reach the base. The hike begins at the big north-side pullout on Hwy 34, and goes more-or-less straight up from the parking pullout. The gully is kind of gnarly and unpleasant; about 20 minutes.
2) Hike the normal trail to Mary's Bust, turn right, and head up the gully on the right side. A stream runs down this gully in the spring (can be icy in winter). About half way up, you should see a majestic cedar on a big ledge: Aim for the right side of the ledge, go behind the cedar, and continue along the exposed ledge to a mantle at its end. Above this, a short 5.0 slab must be negotiated. Continue up the gully and go through the pass behind Mary's Bust to arrive at the base. Also roughly 20 minutes.
3) Climb a route on the main wall or the Left Buttress. Sparky's Cooler or The Beak can be done quickly (combine pitches). Head right from the top of the route on a big ledge, and scramble up and behind the big boulder.
A. ??, 5.10- PG-13, 1p, 75', gear.
B. GBD, 5.11+, 1p, 80', bolts.
BC. ??, 5.10, 1p, 80', bolts & gear.
C. Tres Cojones e un Cuernito, 5.12-(?), 1p, 80', bolts & gear.
DE1. Pot of Gold, 13-, 1p, 85', bolts.
E1. Over the Rainbow, 13-, 1p, 85', bolts.
E2. ??, 5.13-, 1p, 75', bolts.
Upper west face of Mary's Bust
F. ??, 5.10-, 1p, 55', bolts & gear.
G. ??, 5.10, 1p, 70', bolts.
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