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Routes in Golden Hall

Big Horn T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Diamond Overhang T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
GBD S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Morning Town T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rain on the Mountain S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tres Cojones e un Cuernito T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wiggle Room S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Description

The Golden Hall is a rock corridor formed by the upper west face of the main Mary's Bust buttress and an 80-foot wall of golden stone behind it. It's located at the top of the long gully that separates the main buttress from the left buttress. At present (8-21-10), there are a handful on routes on the golden wall side of the corridor, and two routes on the opposite wall of the corridor -- that is, on the very upper west face of Mary's Bust.

Getting There

There are 3 standard approaches used to access The Golden Hall.

1) Hike up to Moonlight Rock and traverse right (down canyon) on the ledge on the top of the Left Buttress. Clamber over a big boulder that rests above The Devil's Backbone to reach the base; the first bolt route encountered is GBD, which is located on the left side of the flat golden sector of the wall. The hike begins at the big north-side pullout on Hwy 34, and goes more-or-less straight up from the parking pullout. The gully is kind of gnarly and unpleasant, with no good trail at present, and lots of loose terrain. Expect about 20 minutes. Perhaps a trail that connects the end of the main Mary's Bust trail to this gully can be established in the future (though maybe not; the terrain is pretty rough).

2) Hike the normal trail to Mary's Bust, turn right, and head up the gully on the right side. A stream runs down this gully in the spring (can be icy in winter). About half way up, you should see a majestic cedar on a big ledge: Aim for the right side of the ledge, go behind the cedar, and continue along the exposed ledge to a mantle at its end. Above this, a short 5.0 slab must be negotiated: I've got a 20-foot piece of rope fixed there for a hand rail. Continue up the gully and go through the pass behind Mary's Bust to arrive at the base. Also roughly 20 minutes.

3) Climb a route on the main wall or the Left Buttress. Sparky's Cooler or The Beak can be done quickly (combine pitches). Head right from the top of the route on a big ledge, and scramble up and behind the big boulder.

See to figure out where you are headed -- routes 10 and 11 are in the Golden Hall.

L->R:

Gold Wall

A. Diamond Overhang, 5.10- PG-13, 1p, 75', gear.
B. GBD, 5.11+, 1p, 80', bolts.
BC. Morning Town, 5.10, 1p, 80', bolts & gear.
C. Tres Cojones e un Cuernito, 5.12-(?), 1p, 80', bolts & gear.
D. Rain on the Mountain, 5.13-, 1p, 75', bolts.

Upper west face of Mary's Bust

E.Big Horn, 5.10-, 1p, 55', bolts & gear.
F.Wiggle Room, 5.10, 1p, 70', bolts.

7 Total Climbs

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