Avg: 3.5 from 22 votes
|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Sapp, Henry, Luebben, Grennard|
|Page Views:||3,191 total · 13/month|
|Shared By:||Mike Sofranko on Dec 31, 2000|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
A few lines of bolts head up to the right of the large roof at the bottom left end of the cliff. The first line of bolts (well spaced) is the first pitch of Pearl Harbor. This is exfoliating for its first half and not the greatest pitch. The next line to the right is Eight Clicks to Saigon. [Begin] with this pitch.
Follow the bolts and gear placements to the bulge about 70 feet up. The route comes very close to P1 of Pearl Harbor at this point. Pulling through the bulge is the 10c crux of this pitch. It is slightly reachy. A couple hard, inobvious, and commiting moves will get you through the bulge. If you manage to onsight this, pat yourself on your back. Wander up the face to the bolted belay halfway up the Diagonal Crack.
The line of bolts heading up from the belay is P2 of Pearl Harbor, and is stellar. Follow the bolts up the headwall to the right of the Diagonal roof/dihedral. The bouldery crux (bolt at waist) is up high and will be obvious when you reach it, but the rest of the pitch is very sustained at 9/10-. Belay at the bolted anchor, and make two double rope rappels to the ground.