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Routes in Combat Rock

Across Enemy Lines T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Arkansas Patriot (aka Wonderin' Where the Lions Are) T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Battle Fatigue T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Battle of Evermore T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Battle of the Bulge (suggested name) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blood for Oil S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Camouflage T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Diagonal T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eight Clicks to Saigon T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Front Lines T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
GI Joe Does Barbie T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Kasserine Pass T,S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Lizzard Warrior S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Monkey Lust T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No More War T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nobody Here But Us Chickens S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Nuclear Polka T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Old Bolt Route T,S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Pearl Harbor T,S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rambo Santa S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Saigon to Pearl Harbor T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stronghold T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Tree Roof T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown 1 T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown 2 T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unknown 3 T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown 4 T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Sport
FA: [Keith Lober, 1980s]
Page Views: 1,653 total, 8/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Oct 11, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This route climbs the face about 15-20 feet to the right of Rambo Santa (5.7). Most people, like myself, think they are on Rambo Santa when they climb this route for the first time. The climbing is high quality, but the protection is not. The mix of quarter inch bolts and death hangers add a little excitment. There are a few trad placements between bolts.

P1: Head up the slab to the right of Rambo Santa. ([3] bolts, 150 feet). Belay at the bolts for that route.

Descent: Rap with one rope to the chains of Arkansas Patriot or do a double rope rap to the ground. [Apparently, aka DMZ]

Protection

Light rack, mostly small stuff, [QDs for 3 bolts]
goatboywonder Patrick  
  5.8- R
Pretty sweet route. The gear can be a bit tricky and spaced out though. Definitely have your head on. I found 3 bolts and the last one seems to have been replaced because it is solid now. Mar 22, 2010
Eran Shileikis
Dysfunctional, CO
 
Eran Shileikis   Dysfunctional, CO
 
I rapped down the "Rambo Santa" anchor to look at the bolts for this climb and only located 3 total. There are 2 newer good ones near the beginning and 1 old 1/4" POS homemade thing just below the 2 bolt anchor at the top. There are actually quite a number of natural placements "near" this route, and it can be done relatively safely [no more than ~15 ft. between placements] if you have a good head and the correct gear. I would not recommend this route for someone climbing 5.8 at their limit. In fact, I do not think the original route is possible [safely anyway] w/out the "missing bolts". According to Rossiter, there use to be a total of 6 bolts on this line, so instead of taking the line where bolts use to be (?), it feels more natural to traverse a little to the right over to P2 of Tree Roof/Schoolmarms in Space. This takes away from the route, unfortunately. Does anyone know what happened to the original bolts? I couldn't find any trace of them (though I probably didn't look hard enough).

Gear BETA: I used everything from micro-cams (BD 0.1 and TCU #0) up to a BD #3 Camalot, and almost everything in between. Definitely bring the #2 and #1 Camalots, and a 0.4 Camalot, or a yellow alien.

All that said, I think once you hit the "ledge" you are basically on the upper 1/2 of P2 of "Schoolmarms in Space". Then you head up, clip the POS 1/4" bolt, make a cruxy move and hit the anchor. Guy Humphrey's advice above is right on. Feb 22, 2007
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
Thanks for replacing the first two bolts on this climb. With this recent change, the climb is no longer "R" rated. You can get good gear every 10-12ft. The 3rd and last bolt is still a 1/4 incher, but it can be backed up with the smallest Alien.

Bring gear to a #3 Camalot with emphasis on small cams. A brown tricam can be placed in a pocket right before the overlap half way up. Jun 12, 2006
I'll have to climb this again and count the bolts. I thought there were 4 or 5. If you get off route at all you could pass them unknowingly. Jan 23, 2006
Don't expect to find 4-5 bolts on this route -- there are only 3. Sep 8, 2003