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Routes in Combat Rock

Across Enemy Lines T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Arkansas Patriot (aka Wonderin' Where the Lions Are) T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Battle Fatigue T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Battle of Evermore T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Battle of the Bulge (suggested name) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blood for Oil S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Camouflage T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Diagonal T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eight Clicks to Saigon T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Front Lines T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
GI Joe Does Barbie T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Kasserine Pass T,S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Lizzard Warrior S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Monkey Lust T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No More War T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nobody Here But Us Chickens S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Nuclear Polka T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Old Bolt Route T,S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Pearl Harbor T,S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rambo Santa S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Saigon to Pearl Harbor T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stronghold T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Tree Roof T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown 1 T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown 2 T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unknown 3 T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown 4 T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Sport, TR, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: L Grennard & C Luebben, 1991; P2 M Beardsley, J Brisslawn, C Luebben, 1992
Page Views: 1,423 total, 10/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Aug 31, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a nice, if runout, 2 pitch, thin, slab up the left-central part of Combat Rock. It sports bolts but requires creative gear and a solid head to avoid rock rash. Pick a shady, cooler day for maximum enjoyment. It has partially been added as "Saigon to Pearl Harbor" on this site, already. However, here it is in its entirety. A slab climber's delight but maybe a sport climber's nemesis.

Find this route nearly at the base of the rock where the trail reaches the cliff. It lies just L of Diagonal & Eight Clicks to Saigon & just R of Tree Roof/Schoolmarms in Space.

Don't read this if you don't like beta:

P1. Scamper up easy slab to the 1st bolt. Don't blow this or place a small wire (fixed?) or blue Alien down & R of the 1st bolt. Clip 1st bolt, make some thin moves, move up to 2nd bolt, carefully clip from the L. A couple of foot-primary moves with a thumb mantle to a thin, painful, 2 hand (8 finger) crimps with crummy feet, crux & 10d (note, for an idgit climber; 10- for a good climber), and pull under the roof. Ivan Rezucha notes he "climbed up to the right of the second bolt until almost touching 10 Clicks and then climbed diagonally left past the bolt with no feet and a couple of sloping finger holds" which may be slightly easier. Clip the 3rd bolt (don't blow this if your last piece is the last bolt), move up to the R of the bolt, get the L foot stable above the roof, thrutch a bit, clear the roof, 9+. Gillett's fine guide suggest it is easier clearing the roof L of the bolt (less obvious). Now walk your feet up the sloping small ramp, and you get onto easier but runout terrain, 8s, to your choice of 2-bolt anchors (the L set is more in line), 150ft. 48" slings make the belay more comfortable.

P2. Some call this the finest pitch on Combat. Follow a line of 6 bolts with 4 distinct cruxes nearly directly above the L 2-bolt anchor. At the first bolt, smedge up right of the bolt, get stable, clip the 2nd bolt, move R onto slippery, darker rock, move up on a granite freckle to a decent scoop with crummy feet, possibly the crux. Pass 2 more bolts & you can rest to the left at the stance above Diagonal's 2nd pitch. It isn't over. Move back R, clip the 5th bolt, believe, & smoothly rockon to a small, fragile L foot edge & reach up. Clip the last bolt, and decipher one last sequence to gain easier terrain to the closely-spaced, 3-bolt anchor. 115 ft. Continue to the top and descend off the back either L (1 rap) or R or rap with double ropes 115 ft, and 140ft to the base.

Protection

Light rack with small cams to #2 Camalot, wires, a #3 Lowe Ball?, 6 QDs, sticky rubber, & a wee bit of verve. 2 ropes to rappel.
Scott Matz
Loveland, CO
Scott Matz   Loveland, CO
I did the Diagonal last night. At P2 instead of moving left into the overhanging dihedral. I took the 2nd pitch of Pearl Harbor and after three bolts veered back left to catch the Diagonal for the hand jams. But just an alternative. It was fun as shit. Aug 19, 2009
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
 
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
 
Finally did P2 after doing P1 twice before. This time on the P1 slab crux I climbed straight up at the bolt using a diagonal edge above the overlap. It seemed straightforward but a little reachy. The easier climbing above the P1 ceiling seemed more run out than previous times. The memorable parts of P2 were a "runout" between the 2nd and 3rd bolts, that I almost backed off at, climbing up and right then reaching way back left to clip the 4th bolt, then stepping back down and left and TR'ing those moves, and the crux high step onto that small edge and the pop for a half joint hold. The steep headwall was surprising easy, and I was thinking, "I've done it!" But then there's that one final hard move. Nov 25, 2007
I have always gone a little left of the bolt in question. I also heard that the first ascensionist graded these climbs a little easier than they are. Don't know if that is true. In your photos, you show the easy/right and hard/wrong way. I think I have done it the Hard way and thought it to be 11ish or so. I am curious about the sequence of the easy way. Can you explain? Feb 5, 2007
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
 
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
 
I forgot to mention in my previous post that the Rossiter and Gillett guides call P1 10a and 10b (or vice versa) which is why I was wondering what's up with Leo's 10d rating. Dec 4, 2006
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10d
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10d
I more or less went straight up the bolted line, and I found it about right at the grade, so I'd say 10d/10+. But then again, my weakness is slopers and whatnot. So, I can make 5.9s feel like 11s at times. Dec 3, 2006
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
 
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
 
Leo seems to have climbed P1 left of the second bolt and found it to be quite hard. Not knowing that was a possibility, I climbed up to the right of the second bolt until almost touching 10 Clicks and then climbed diagonally left past the bolt with no feet and a couple of sloping finger holds. Hard for me, but not 10d. Maybe 10b? Dec 3, 2006
Deb Thompson  
 
Two stars, don't you mean? Sep 10, 2005