Avg: 2.6 from 20 votes
|Type:||Trad, Sport, TR, 250 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||L Grennard & C Luebben, 1991; P2 M Beardsley, J Brisslawn, C Luebben, 1992|
|Page Views:||1,437 total · 9/month|
|Shared By:||Leo Paik on Aug 31, 2005|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis is a nice, if runout, 2 pitch, thin, slab up the left-central part of Combat Rock. It sports bolts but requires creative gear and a solid head to avoid rock rash. Pick a shady, cooler day for maximum enjoyment. It has partially been added as "Saigon to Pearl Harbor" on this site, already. However, here it is in its entirety. A slab climber's delight but maybe a sport climber's nemesis.
Find this route nearly at the base of the rock where the trail reaches the cliff. It lies just L of Diagonal & Eight Clicks to Saigon & just R of Tree Roof/Schoolmarms in Space.
Don't read this if you don't like beta:
P1. Scamper up easy slab to the 1st bolt. Don't blow this or place a small wire (fixed?) or blue Alien down & R of the 1st bolt. Clip 1st bolt, make some thin moves, move up to 2nd bolt, carefully clip from the L. A couple of foot-primary moves with a thumb mantle to a thin, painful, 2 hand (8 finger) crimps with crummy feet, crux & 10d (note, for an idgit climber; 10- for a good climber), and pull under the roof. Ivan Rezucha notes he "climbed up to the right of the second bolt until almost touching 10 Clicks and then climbed diagonally left past the bolt with no feet and a couple of sloping finger holds" which may be slightly easier. Clip the 3rd bolt (don't blow this if your last piece is the last bolt), move up to the R of the bolt, get the L foot stable above the roof, thrutch a bit, clear the roof, 9+. Gillett's fine guide suggest it is easier clearing the roof L of the bolt (less obvious). Now walk your feet up the sloping small ramp, and you get onto easier but runout terrain, 8s, to your choice of 2-bolt anchors (the L set is more in line), 150ft. 48" slings make the belay more comfortable.
P2. Some call this the finest pitch on Combat. Follow a line of 6 bolts with 4 distinct cruxes nearly directly above the L 2-bolt anchor. At the first bolt, smedge up right of the bolt, get stable, clip the 2nd bolt, move R onto slippery, darker rock, move up on a granite freckle to a decent scoop with crummy feet, possibly the crux. Pass 2 more bolts & you can rest to the left at the stance above Diagonal's 2nd pitch. It isn't over. Move back R, clip the 5th bolt, believe, & smoothly rockon to a small, fragile L foot edge & reach up. Clip the last bolt, and decipher one last sequence to gain easier terrain to the closely-spaced, 3-bolt anchor. 115 ft. Continue to the top and descend off the back either L (1 rap) or R or rap with double ropes 115 ft, and 140ft to the base.