Type: Trad, Sport, 130 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Craig Luebben
Page Views: 1,283 total · 6/month
Shared By: Nate Christiansen on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

This climb is the bolted route just to the left of Diagonal. Start up the face, clipping 3 bolts and eventually crossing the 5.9 crack (stoppers), until you hit this [commiting] roof) 5.11b/5.11c. Clip 2 more bolts to a 2 bolt belay. The second pitch, which is not within my range, is sustained 5.11hard and 5.12mod. 2 rappels seem feasible.

Protection

Just a few quick draws and some small nuts for the first pitch.

Photos

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The bulge on pitch 1 is definitely commiting although protection can be placed from a somewhat strenuous position in the [horizontal] crack before the mantle move. It's in the #0.75 Camalot range. Jul 15, 2005
nolteboy
Fort Collins, CO
  5.11a
nolteboy   Fort Collins, CO
  5.11a
The bulge on p.1 probably isn't any harder than .10d or .11a.
I haven't done p.2 yet. Jan 25, 2006
Patrick Ackerson
Loveland, CO
Patrick Ackerson   Loveland, CO
Pitch two - count on friction to get you to the second bolt, then move right (think small). Now move back left and catch a welcome three-fingertip hold that allows your feet some added friction. This is the crux. Pull it and finish with "Battle Forever More"; bring Metolius one to four, along with shoulder length slings for the this section.
Expect some high stepping onto matchstick holds. Aug 31, 2007