GI Joe Does Barbie
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.4 from 36 votes
Type: | Trad, Sport |
FA: | Craig. Luebben & Bill Taylor |
Page Views: | 3,580 total · 12/month |
Shared By: | Tyler Jones on May 14, 2001 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023
Details
Update: per Bruce Hildenbrand: the area has been open since 2023.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
This route is under the large roof on the right side of the crag. The bolt line is directly below the roof going to a 2-bolt anchor. The crack that I mentioned is about 10 feet left of the bolts.
If you take the crack (.7), follow it about 50 feet up and then traverse right to the second-to-last bolt. Continue up through the tricky lip to the chains.
The bolt line seems like the normal way, but I've seen two books show two different lines. Follow the bolts on the face. There's an undercling at the second-to-last bolt that is about to pop... be very careful!! Pull up through the tricky lip to the chains.
There is an A1 aid line past the anchor. A bolt on the ceiling of the roof gets you started. I have no idea what's up on the other side, but it looks overgrown.
If you take the crack (.7), follow it about 50 feet up and then traverse right to the second-to-last bolt. Continue up through the tricky lip to the chains.
The bolt line seems like the normal way, but I've seen two books show two different lines. Follow the bolts on the face. There's an undercling at the second-to-last bolt that is about to pop... be very careful!! Pull up through the tricky lip to the chains.
There is an A1 aid line past the anchor. A bolt on the ceiling of the roof gets you started. I have no idea what's up on the other side, but it looks overgrown.
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