Avg: 2.6 from 5 votes
Routes in Combat Rock
|Across Enemy Lines T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Arkansas Patriot (aka Wonderin' Where the Lions Are) T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Battle Fatigue T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Battle of Evermore T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13|
|Battle of the Bulge (suggested name) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Blood for Oil S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Camouflage T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R|
|Diagonal T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Eight Clicks to Saigon T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13|
|Front Lines T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|GI Joe Does Barbie T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Kasserine Pass T,S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R|
|Lizzard Warrior S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Monkey Lust T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|No More War T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Nobody Here But Us Chickens S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X|
|Nuclear Polka T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Old Bolt Route T,S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13|
|Pearl Harbor T,S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Rambo Santa S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Saigon to Pearl Harbor T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Stronghold T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R|
|Tree Roof T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Unknown 1 T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Unknown 2 T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Unknown 3 T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Unknown 4 T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Kimball & Joseph 1984|
|Page Views:||129 total, 1/month|
|Shared By:||david goldstein on Apr 29, 2007|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionI enjoyed this apparently neglected gem more than Lizard Warrior. I would give it 4 stars, but the second pitch which was quite engaging on its own terms, felt a little contrived since easier climbing existed nearby to the right and left.
P1: Start a little bit left of Lizard Warrior and follow a left-leaning weakness/offset/crack (marginal pro to start, then good pro at a 9+ crux, then pin & bolt) for about 50' to a right-facing corner. Up the corner for a bit, then traverse right under a long, narrow flake, then up to the bottom of an ugly, water-stained or wet, left-facing corner. Step right at the corner, pull over a roof (5.8 as Gillett says, but where's the handcrack?) then up a little bit more and arrange, with difficulty, a belay just below a steeper headwall/roof. This meandering pitch comes together quite improbably, somewhat reminding me of a top quality pitch in the Black Canyon.
P2: Follows a thin crack a little right of the belay through two roofs, at both of which it is very tempting to plug the best hold with gear. Gillett shows two pins on this pitch, though only one (at the 2nd roof, hard to clip if short) is currently in place. The first roof (5.10) accepts a bomber #0.4 Camalot but I needed the hold so got by w/ a 000 C3 and a micro nut. At the 10+ 2nd roof, I couldn't clip the pin without initiating the crux sequence, so I opted to plug a decent, yellow Alien into a pocket a few inches below the pin. The sequence over the 2nd roof has a sting in the tail and no good pro above the pin, so plan accordingly. After dispatching the 2nd roof, cruise up about 25' on easy ground to a primo belay ledge, about 10' right of a well set up chain anchor.
LocationThis starts about 20' left of the start of Lizard Warrior.
ProtectionWe had double nuts from RPs to medium Rocks, single 5-7 Rocks and cams from tiny to cups with doubles in the fingers range; overall this seemed about right, bolder folks could safely eliminate some of the doubles. The first pitch took at least 15 pieces, almost all of which were on a draw or a long runner. I was very glad I had a yellow Alien for 2nd roof when I couldn't reach the pin, though a yellow TCU or the largest C3 would probably also work in that spot.
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