Sergeant Reckless
5.10b/c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
| Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches |
| GPS: | 40.44204, -105.34428 |
| FA: | Ted Schaal, 2020 |
| Page Views: | 544 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Ryan Becwar on Oct 23, 2021 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
Fun, varied slabby climbing takes you to the top of the formation.
P1. Climb through the main crack of the first pitch of diagonal, exiting at the large ledge on the right. Or climb one of the bolted routes leading to this ledge. Belay at chains.
P2: the money pitch. Climb up and left passing two bolts on the relatively blank, slabby face. The crux coming at the 2nd bolt. Make delicate moves to gain the roof, and step over this on good holds. Wander up and right passing 6 more bolts of creative climbing with a few 9-10a sections to belay at chains above the 2 small trees, below another large roof, 10c, 8 bolts, a few small cams.
P3. The quality decreases substantially on this pitch, but it's still fun climbing to the top of the formation. Step up and right around the roof, clipping a bolt as you do so. Wander up mostly easier terrain with intermittent cracks to chains at the top of the formation, 5.9, 4 bolts, more small and medium cams/nuts.
The cruxes are well-protected and are done after clipping high bolts from a good stance. This also means that climbers shorter than 5'5" or so may have difficulty reaching these bolts without leaving the stance.
Descend with 3 ~80 foot rappels down the route.
Protection
Bolts plus a single rack of small to medium cams - nothing larger than 1", plus any gear for Diagonal's P1.



1 Comment