Type: Trad, Sport, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Patrick Ackerson, June 6, 2007
Page Views: 2,072 total · 18/month
Shared By: Patrick Ackerson on May 11, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Location

This was the route called Unfinished Business in the Rocky Mountain National Park: The Climber's Guide: Estes Park Valley; by Gillett, Bernard. The base of the route is immediately left of Blood for Oil and right of the Diagonal start.

Protection

First pitch: Five bolts, belay with #0.75 Camalots.
Second pitch: Six bolts plus 1-4 Metolius (double #1s) and one small black Alien, belay at bolts.

Photos

Patrick Ackerson
Loveland, CO
  5.13a/b
Patrick Ackerson   Loveland, CO
  5.13a/b
Crux begins at the second bolt (thin & sequential). The next three bolts are not a free ride, but noticeably easier. After the fifth bolt, run it to a large ledge and use the crack to build a belay (#0.75 Camalots are handy). The five bolts on a blank face mark the beginning of the second pitch (three bolts left are for Enemy Lines and five right are for Blood for Oil). Most of this section is sustained 11/12 climbing only breaking after the fourth bolt. Past bolt five begins the trad portion, and steepest section of the climb. First bulge take the left-facing, shallow dihedral with a finger crack to help (moderate 12). Second bulge traverse right and up into a shallow alcove and clip a lone bolt. Finish by sneaking up to slopers above the bolt and blast for the anchor (bolts). Craig Luebben was said to have described the steep section as thin and scary. May 11, 2009
Even though Pat ticked this route a couple of years ago I have to say that I watched him climb it again 6 weeks ago or so. It is true of all great athletes that they make the most difficult maneuvers look so easy. Pat floated the crux and had I not known the difficulty I would have sworn he was on a 5.8 slab. Very strong work Pat. Let's hit that roof again, I want to see you get it. Al May 11, 2009
Scott Matz
Loveland, CO
Scott Matz   Loveland, CO
Good work Pat, we'll have to climb sometime, I met you late night in the Big Thompson, the fastest I've ever seen a rope put in a coil in my career. Aug 12, 2009
Alex Shainman
Rifle, CO
Alex Shainman   Rifle, CO
Nice send! That is a really hard slab!! Jan 27, 2010