Type: Sport
FA: Lawrence Stuemke and Allison Sheets, 1995
Page Views: 10,093 total · 49/month
Shared By: Michael Walker on May 25, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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A Monastery classic. Located about halfway up the SE corner of the Boneyard formation, the climb begins on a secluded, dramatic shelf perched above the valley floor. The views are to die for - on the ground and on the route. A bouldery start leads to continuous, inspiring climbing just right of the sharp SE arête.

Access to the climb is via a small shelf on the lower end of the Boneyard, found on the Catacomb trail. Look for a bolt route (Saint Sixtus Scoop, 5.10b) which starts in a smooth scoop-like wall above the shelf. Scramble up past the bolt route along the narrowing shelf and find the Hot Zone arête above.

To begin, climb back up to the entrance shelf, clip the 1st bolt and jump back to the ground for the full-on, feelin' safe crank - the direct start is a nice boulder problem right up the face, but the hardest moves of the climb can be avoided from the left. Above the first bolt is the unavoidable crux move of the climb and takes one to easier - yet no less interesting - climbing along the right side of the arête.

Hang out from a two bolt anchor and enjoy the view then rap 60' to the ground.


6 bolts to a two bolt anchor


Joe Keyser
Scottsdale, AZ
Joe Keyser   Scottsdale, AZ
GREAT climb for a short sport climb! Really photogenic.... Jul 17, 2002
Wow, this is a really, really enjoyable route. Made my first trip to the Monastery this weekend and this was our 4th route of the day, and probably the most fun. Great moves, position, and scenery. Good photo ops for someone willing to scramble uphill of the route. Aug 4, 2003
Best bolted 5.9 I've ever done. and the hike in is a piece of cake -- it hugs the slope's contours, so practically no elevation changes. Jul 27, 2005
Nate Oakes
Nate Oakes  
My favorite route at The Monastery (so far!). Absolutely stunning views all the way up. Feels pretty exposed, in that you're climbing an arete with nothing but Big Thompson Valley beneath you. The start was the toughest part for me, I began a bit to the right of the arete and then traversed over (decently chalked moves). You can pre-clip the first bolt to make it a less scary of a lead. Probably not necessary, but I used some fun foot-crossing moves to kind of dance around a bit. You can use some great holds on the arete for most of the route. Enjoy the view! May 30, 2006
Fort Collins, CO
climber73   Fort Collins, CO
I liked this route so much I led it 2x in a row!!! My favorite at Monastery so far.... Jul 17, 2007
Adam Paashaus
Greensboro, NC
Adam Paashaus   Greensboro, NC
Moving right to the anchors seems a little runout but not bad. Great route with positive holds most of the route. Apr 29, 2010
keith story
Castlegar, BC
keith story   Castlegar, BC
Great moves at the second-to-last-bolt and is very fun in between! For the area, this definitely fits in as a 5.9. As for + and -, I have no idea.

Wonderful warm-up and a sweet lead. Jul 25, 2010
Chad R. Johnson
Loveland, CO
Chad R. Johnson   Loveland, CO
Excellent little sport route! If you are a new 5.9 leader, make sure you get on this if you are here. Aug 22, 2012
Dale Haas and I replaced the cold shut hangers at the anchor with SS Fixe. We added SS quicklinks and rings. The hardware for this project was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association - ASCA (www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support.

Nice to see the stuff I put up there 12 years ago (plated 5/16" quicklinks + link of 3/8" chain) was in OK shape, but stainless is better. Jun 27, 2015
Good, positive climbing following the edge of the face. Beautiful views from the top and bolts where you need it. Slightly funky move at the very bottom but pretty well-protected. Sep 14, 2016