Type: Sport
FA: Lawrence Stuemke, 1994
Page Views: 2,068 total · 10/month
Shared By: Michael Walker on May 24, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

39 Opinions

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This is a very enticing line from the ground and an adventure for the senses when high in the air. Approach the climb from above, via a shelf and conveniently tilted boulder behind the flake mentioned in Gravestone.

The climb begins with the crux, a no-feet problem stepping over from the boulder to the wall. Bomber incut holds lead upward to a crystal museum of sorts, the rock changing in texture and patterns with height. The second crux can be avoided left, easing the grade, or straight up on awesome edges. Rap 40' to the ground.


5 bolts to a two bolt anchor.


Michael put it about right. Once you get past the start, it is a great route. The initial move off of the flake is goofy, but it's fairly easy if you are a bit taller. Pull of ledges and edges to the top. I recommend belaying below the flake on the ground. There are some places for cams and tricams on the large piece of rock next to the crag if you need to set up belay anchors. Another quality Monastery route. Aug 30, 2002
Jake Wyatt
Longmont, CO
Jake Wyatt   Longmont, CO
Very big holds all the way up -- quite a change from climbing at the Outer Gates. Jul 14, 2003
James Balasalle
James Balasalle  
A good route to climb after climbing "Gravestone" to its right. Didn't think it was quite 5.9- though. More like 5.8/5.8+. The holds are big, really big. There's huge feet the whole way. I thought it was a lot more straightforward than Gravestone, but maybe a little bit more pumpy/strenuous.

If you're a solid 5.8 leader or breaking into 5.9, this route should present you with no problems. The holds at the bottom are big. And the stance to clip the first bolt is great. Jul 16, 2003
Jeremy Franz
Berthoud, CO
Jeremy Franz   Berthoud, CO
The first move off the ground is definitely the hardest, but can be avoided by stepping from the flake. Skipping the crux downgrades this route to about 5.7. Well protected. I thought it was actually easier than Gravestone after the first move. Aug 16, 2003
Nate Oakes  
Whether you start by stepping over from the boulder or from the ground drastically changes the difficulty of this route. I agree with Jeremy, that it's probably about 5.7 if you step over, but if you start from the bottom, I think it goes in the 5.9 range. Shares an anchor with Gravestone, to the right of this route. Some fun reaches to big holds throughout the middle of this route. Definitely worth doing. May 30, 2006
Joshua Myatt
Joshua Myatt  
5.8 when using the boulder to access the first jug, but the start from the ground seemed more like 5.10a to me. Sep 5, 2006
keith story
Boulder, CO
keith story   Boulder, CO
Good warm-up. But nothing too spectacular compared to the other beautiful fantastic climbs around. Good for getting your blood flowing! Jul 25, 2010
Person1727   Boulder
Really liked the holds on this route. We definitely missed the 5.7/5.8 sequence that people are mentioning. Check your bolts up here for looseness. Jun 5, 2015