PRINT: Rock Climb The Hot Zone, Estes Park Valley

The Hot Zone

5.9-, Sport,

Avg: 3.4 from 187 votes
FA: Lawrence Stuemke and Allison Sheets, 1995
Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Big Thompson Ca… > Monastery > Catacomb

Access Issue: Area closure - now lifted. Previously: Storm Mt./Cedar Park road is reopened to all Details

Per Kurtz: The Monastery is open again! fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO….

Per Julie Nelson: the forest is closed due to after fire concerns in this area until June 30, 2021. There is a sign at the trailhead about the closure. See the US Forest Service website for further updates.

Previously: per Bruce Hildenbrand: Storm Mountain Road is open to all.

Per Hank C: the Storm Mt./Cedar Park area is closed to locals-only traffic for the time being due to wildfire concerns. We were turned away by a park ranger this morning (9/12/2020).

Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023 Details

Update: per Bruce Hildenbrand: the area has been open since 2023.

Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.

Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.

I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.

Description

A Monastery classic. Located about halfway up the SE corner of the Boneyard formation, the climb begins on a secluded, dramatic shelf perched above the valley floor. The views are to die for - on the ground and on the route. A bouldery start leads to continuous, inspiring climbing just right of the sharp SE arête.

Access to the climb is via a small shelf on the lower end of the Boneyard, found on the Catacomb trail. Look for a bolt route (Saint Sixtus Scoop, 5.10b) which starts in a smooth scoop-like wall above the shelf. Scramble up past the bolt route along the narrowing shelf and find the Hot Zone arête above.

To begin, climb back up to the entrance shelf, clip the 1st bolt and jump back to the ground for the full-on, feelin' safe crank - the direct start is a nice boulder problem right up the face, but the hardest moves of the climb can be avoided from the left. Above the first bolt is the unavoidable crux move of the climb and takes one to easier - yet no less interesting - climbing along the right side of the arête.

Hang out from a two bolt anchor and enjoy the view then rap 60' to the ground.

Protection

6 bolts to a two bolt anchor

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Prepping to rap down.

The Hot Zone.

This is Tabula Rasa, but the climber to the right is at the top of The Hot Zone. This might be useful when trying to find this climb, as Tabula Rasa is super easy to recognize.

Hot Zone. Great climb, great views!

Eric leads up Hot Zone.

Mounting the arete about halfway up.

Enjoying the view.

On a clear day in 1997 with Keith Brown.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Michael Kullman

Wow, this is a really, really enjoyable route. Made my first trip to the Monastery this weekend and this was our 4th route of the day, and probably the most fun. Great moves, position, and scenery. Good photo ops for someone willing to scramble uphill of the route. Aug 4, 2003

Anonymous Coward

Best bolted 5.9 I've ever done. and the hike in is a piece of cake -- it hugs the slope's contours, so practically no elevation changes. Jul 27, 2005

Nate Oakes

5.9-

My favorite route at The Monastery (so far!). Absolutely stunning views all the way up. Feels pretty exposed, in that you're climbing an arete with nothing but Big Thompson Valley beneath you. The start was the toughest part for me, I began a bit to the right of the arete and then traversed over (decently chalked moves). You can pre-clip the first bolt to make it a less scary of a lead. Probably not necessary, but I used some fun foot-crossing moves to kind of dance around a bit. You can use some great holds on the arete for most of the route. Enjoy the view! May 30, 2006

climber73
Fort Collins, CO

I liked this route so much I led it 2x in a row!!! My favorite at Monastery so far.... Jul 17, 2007

Adam Paashaus
Greensboro, NC

Moving right to the anchors seems a little runout but not bad. Great route with positive holds most of the route. Apr 29, 2010

keith story
Castlegar

5.9

Great moves at the second-to-last-bolt and is very fun in between! For the area, this definitely fits in as a 5.9. As for + and -, I have no idea.

Wonderful warm-up and a sweet lead. Jul 25, 2010

Chad R. Johnson
Loveland, CO

Excellent little sport route! If you are a new 5.9 leader, make sure you get on this if you are here. Aug 22, 2012

Bruce Hildenbrand
Silicon Valley/Boulder

Dale Haas and I replaced the cold shut hangers at the anchor with SS Fixe. We added SS quicklinks and rings. The hardware for this project was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association - ASCA (www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support.

Nice to see the stuff I put up there 12 years ago (plated 5/16" quicklinks + link of 3/8" chain) was in OK shape, but stainless is better. Jun 27, 2015

Wyatt Peck

Good, positive climbing following the edge of the face. Beautiful views from the top and bolts where you need it. Slightly funky move at the very bottom but pretty well-protected. Sep 14, 2016

Rodent Bair
Aurora, CO

Climbing is not difficult, but it does require more thought than most 5.9s I have climbed. Fairly sustained for the grade and super fun. Both anchor bolts were spinners on 8/26/2021. Aug 27, 2021

Bryce Ungersma
Southern California

5.9

Nice warm-up for Tabula Rasa. The setting of The Monastery is so beautiful. Apr 25, 2022

Aarya Kumar

Great route! Well bolted and full of one/no-hand rests, so there are plenty of spots to take a minute, if you get pumped. It's pretty exposed but has an absolutely stunning view! Both anchor bolts were spinning on 06/2024. Jul 3, 2024

Michael Leyendecker

This climb is actually on a side passage behind Tabula Rasa, a substantial distance from The Mausoleum and Gravestone - people trying to find it through mountain project alone might find it difficult to locate. Jul 4, 2024

Shay Subramanian
Denver, CO

5.9

The start feels like 5.9, and the rest feels like sustained 5.8+ or so. You can't beat the setting! The climb is SUPER annoying to find, though. It's not in the Vestibule nor the Catacomb proper but in a small side alcove BEHIND Tabula Rasa. Jake Carroll's photo was super helpful. Here's how we got to it - from the base of Tabula Rasa (the Altar), hike downhill about 20 feet or so, looking for a passage to your right into the next "alley", the Catacomb - it'll thin to about the width of a person, but you can hike it all the way through. After exiting the passage, follow the wall right about 10 feet until you find a small scramble up and right to the base of the arete. Jul 5, 2024