Tick Rock Rock Climbing
|GPS:||40.415, -105.378 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
|Page Views:||16,483 total · 102/month|
|Shared By:||climber76 on Nov 2, 2008|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
FAs were by A. Howard. The 160 foot climb on the long vertical seam on the right is called PTSD. The overbolting was due to some scary lead bolting. The plan is to sort the bolts out a bit at some point. I think that this line is at least 10a, if one stays out of the manky crack system to the right of the face. If you use the chaucy cracks and fins on the right, it is much easier, but you will pull boulders down on to your belayer. The next climb to the left which is rated above at 5.5 is probably 5.8 with a significant crux getting out of the offwidth seam and on to the face, and a face crux just below the anchors. There are 5 or 6 bolts on the face above. A #3 Camalot will fit near the start of the offwidth. A couple of smaller cams are needed before the offwidth. I would not recommend this for the budding 5.5 leader. It is called Barock. The next bolted line to the left is called Nervous Tic. It is 5.9. On the ledge that Barock and Nervous Tic are on, there are a number of good lines that can be toproped from trees slung with chains.
This small crag can be a pleasant escape into the sun during cooler months of the year. The approach is steep with loose rock. This may be too steep for dogs or small kids. It probably goes at 3rd class. There are a number of prickly plants along the way that seem to leave a few burrs under the skin. Work gloves or a knife can be useful to dig them out before you have to crimp on them. The rock here can require some cleaning and will on occasion crumble under you. Still, for the right types, climbing here will bring a smile to your face.
A. Ixodes, 10+, 1p, 100', bolts.
B. Just One Tick Away, 9, 1p, 95', TR or R/X.
C. Tic, Tac, Toe, 8 PG-13, 1p, 100', gear.
D. Barock, 8+, 3p, bolts +/- gear.
E. Nervous Tic, 9+, 1-2p, 160', bolts.
F1. RFD, PG-13, 100', bolts and gear.
F2. Arachnophobia, 5, 1p, 105', bolts.
G. Tick Fever, 9, 1p, 90', bolts.
H. Not My Tick to Bear, 8, 1p, 60', gear.
I. PTSD, 10, 1-2p, 160', bolts.
J. Green Flash, 9, 1p, 80', bolts & gear.
Classic Climbing Routes at Tick Rock
Days w Precip