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Jug Dome aka Anne's Rock Rock Climbing
Routes in Jug Dome aka Anne's Rock
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Adam's Rib S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Backpaddle S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Black Tube, The S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Crystal Jug S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dick Van Dike S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Dragon's Back S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Growler S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Jump Start S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Law School S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Love Canal S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rasp, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Shag S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unknown S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Elevation: | 7,338 ft | 2,237 m |
| GPS: |
40.41158, -105.38089 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 34,134 total · 116/month | |
| Shared By: | Old Fart aka Dave Bohn on May 20, 2002 | |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023
Details
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
This is a great out-of-the-way area on the way to Estes Park with a choice of long (12-16) clip sport face routes, as well as a few shorter, sport routes on varied granite with a choice of long, slabby crystal pinching routes to short, bulging, gym style climbing. This area has seen very little climbing since it was bolted by Snively, Hill, and Gillett in '98, so there are few friable flakes here and there. Do expect a lot of solitude and some great scenery to make up for the approach that is a LOT longer than the ten minutes claimed by Gillett.
L->R:
A. Unknown.
B. Growler, 9, 1p, 60', bolts.
C. Shag, 7, 1p, 140', bolts.
D. Backpaddle, 11-, 1p, 75', bolts.
E1. Unknown, 10, 1p, 100', bolts.
E2. Black Tube, 10, 1p, 180', bolts.
F. Adam's Rib, 10, 1p, 140', bolts.
G. Law School, 8, 1-2p, 150', bolts.
H. Jump Start, 10-, 1p, 95-105', 1p, bolts.
I. Dick Van Dike, 9-, 1p, 150', bolts.
J. Love Canal, 7, 2p, 150', bolts.
K. Crystal Jug, 7, 2p, 170', bolts.
Above:
L. The Rasp, 8, 1p, 65', bolts.
Far right:
M. Dragon's Back, 8, 1p, 90', bolts +/- gear.
Unknown locations:
Direct Route, South Face, 8, FA Layton Kor & Rob Wheeler, 1970.
Southeast Face, FA Walter Warner, Ed McTaggart, Dalton Garlitz, Denny McMillin, Blaine Goil, Kevin Sohnulle, 1959.
Getting There
This is a hard to find area, but it is worth the time to figure out. The easiest way to locate it is to drive up (W) the Big Thompson Canyon to the handicapped fishing pullout past Drake. Turn around and drive back down looking for a one car pull-out on the left (N) using Gillett's topo of the area on the tiny upper right hand corner of page 191 of his guide to find the spot about 0.4 mi. below the handicapped turnout and JUST!! past a blasted rock-roadcut area. Park and follow an initially steep but gradually easier, somewhat cairned trail, first to the west then to the east, to find the base of the rock. This is about the same length as the approach to Animal World or Upper Security Risk in Boulder Canyon.
Classic Climbing Routes at Jug Dome aka Anne's Rock
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