Elevation: 7,338 ft
GPS: 40.412, -105.381 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 18,016 total · 87/month
Shared By: Old Fart aka Dave Bohn on May 20, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
Today
72°F - 50°F 22°C - 10°C
Thu
75°F - 49°F 24°C - 9°C
Fri
60°F - 43°F 16°C - 6°C
Sat
57°F - 42°F 14°C - 6°C
Sun
58°F - 42°F 14°C - 6°C
Mon
68°F - 46°F 20°C - 8°C
Tue
74°F - 48°F 23°C - 9°C

Description

This is a great out-of-the-way area on the way to Estes Park with a choice of long (12-16) clip sport face routes, as well as a few shorter, sport routes on varied granite with a choice of long, slabby crystal pinching routes to short, bulging, gym style climbing. This area has seen very little climbing since it was bolted by Snively, Hill, and Gillett in '98, so there are few friable flakes here and there. Do expect a lot of solitude and some great scenery to make up for the approach that is a LOT longer than the ten minutes claimed by Gillett.

L->R:

A. Unknown.
B. Brown Hangers, 9, 1p, 60', bolts.
C. Shag, 7, 1p, 140', bolts.
D. Backpaddle, 11-, 1p, 75', bolts.
E. Black Tube, 10, 1p, 180', bolts.
F. Adam's Rib, 10, 1p, 140', bolts.
G. Law School, 8, 1-2p, 150', bolts.
H. Jump Start, 10-, 1p, 95-105', 1p, bolts.
I. Dick Van Dike, 9-, 1p, 150', bolts.
J. Love Canal, 7, 2p, 150', bolts.
K. Crystal Jug, 7, 2p, 170', bolts.

Above:

L. The Rasp, 8, 1p, 65', bolts.

Far right:

M. Unknown, 8, 1p, 90', bolts +/- gear.

Unknown locations:

Direct Route, South Face, 8, FA Layton Kor & Rob Wheeler, 1970.
Southeast Face, FA Walter Warner, Ed McTaggart, Dalton Garlitz, Denny McMillin, Blaine Goil, Kevin Sohnulle, 1959.

Getting There

This is a hard to find area, but it is worth the time to figure out. The easiest way to locate it is to drive up (W) the Big Thompson Canyon to the handicapped fishing pullout past Drake. Turn around and drive back down looking for a one car pull-out on the left (N) using Gillett's topo of the area on the tiny upper right hand corner of page 191 of his guide to find the spot about 0.4 mi. below the handicapped turnout and JUST!! past a blasted rock-roadcut area. Park and follow an initially steep but gradually easier, somewhat cairned trail, first to the west then to the east, to find the base of the rock. This is about the same length as the approach to Animal World or Upper Security Risk in Boulder Canyon.

12 Total Climbs

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Location: Jug Dome aka Anne's Rock Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Jug Dome aka Anne's Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 10
Unknown
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 16
Dick Van Dike
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
Brown Hangers
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 9
Jump Start
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 16
The Black Tube
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 12
Adam's Rib
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 17
Backpaddle
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Unknown
 10
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Dick Van Dike
 16
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Brown Hangers
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Jump Start
 9
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
The Black Tube
 16
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Adam's Rib
 12
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Backpaddle
 17
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
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