Elevation: 7,338 ft
GPS: 40.41158, -105.38089
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 32,786 total · 128/month
Shared By: Old Fart aka Dave Bohn on May 20, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.? Details

Description

This is a great out-of-the-way area on the way to Estes Park with a choice of long (12-16) clip sport face routes, as well as a few shorter, sport routes on varied granite with a choice of long, slabby crystal pinching routes to short, bulging, gym style climbing. This area has seen very little climbing since it was bolted by Snively, Hill, and Gillett in '98, so there are few friable flakes here and there. Do expect a lot of solitude and some great scenery to make up for the approach that is a LOT longer than the ten minutes claimed by Gillett.

L->R:

A. Unknown.
B. Brown Hangers, 9, 1p, 60', bolts.
C. Shag, 7, 1p, 140', bolts.
D. Backpaddle, 11-, 1p, 75', bolts.
E1. Unknown, 10, 1p, 100', bolts.
E2. Black Tube, 10, 1p, 180', bolts.
F. Adam's Rib, 10, 1p, 140', bolts.
G. Law School, 8, 1-2p, 150', bolts.
H. Jump Start, 10-, 1p, 95-105', 1p, bolts.
I. Dick Van Dike, 9-, 1p, 150', bolts.
J. Love Canal, 7, 2p, 150', bolts.
K. Crystal Jug, 7, 2p, 170', bolts.

Above:

L. The Rasp, 8, 1p, 65', bolts.

Far right:

M. Unknown, 8, 1p, 90', bolts +/- gear.

Unknown locations:

Direct Route, South Face, 8, FA Layton Kor & Rob Wheeler, 1970.
Southeast Face, FA Walter Warner, Ed McTaggart, Dalton Garlitz, Denny McMillin, Blaine Goil, Kevin Sohnulle, 1959.

Getting There

This is a hard to find area, but it is worth the time to figure out. The easiest way to locate it is to drive up (W) the Big Thompson Canyon to the handicapped fishing pullout past Drake. Turn around and drive back down looking for a one car pull-out on the left (N) using Gillett's topo of the area on the tiny upper right hand corner of page 191 of his guide to find the spot about 0.4 mi. below the handicapped turnout and JUST!! past a blasted rock-roadcut area. Park and follow an initially steep but gradually easier, somewhat cairned trail, first to the west then to the east, to find the base of the rock. This is about the same length as the approach to Animal World or Upper Security Risk in Boulder Canyon.

13 Total Climbs

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Location: Jug Dome aka Anne's Rock Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Jug Dome aka Anne's Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 43
Love Canal
Sport 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 35
Shag
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 39
Law School
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 23
Dick Van Dike
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 15
Brown Hangers
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 20
Unknown
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 22
Jump Start
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 19
The Black Tube
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 6
Unknown
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 14
Adam's Rib
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 25
Backpaddle
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Love Canal
 43
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport 2 pitches
Shag
 35
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Law School
 39
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Dick Van Dike
 23
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Brown Hangers
 15
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Unknown
 20
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Jump Start
 22
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
The Black Tube
 19
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Unknown
 6
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Adam's Rib
 14
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Backpaddle
 25
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
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