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Routes in Jug Dome aka Anne's Rock

Adam's Rib S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Backpaddle S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Tube, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brown Hangers S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crystal Jug S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dick Van Dike S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Jump Start S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Law School S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Love Canal S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rasp, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shag S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: Gillett, Huntsman, and Snively
Page Views: 1,299 total, 7/month
Shared By: Kurt Johnson on Feb 23, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a fun and interesting route just right of "The Black Tube" which goes up the obvious "rib" near the center of the crag. I did this route before the new guidebook came out, so I had no idea what its rating was before climbing it. It's got three 5.10 cruxes (.10a, .10b and .10c) on the rib proper (bottom half of the route) and a final 5.10c crux near the top, at the bulge just above the ledge. It has lots of pegmatite crystal crimping and tiny nubbins for your feet. A double rope rappel from a bolted anchor or a scramble to the top will get you back on solid ground.

Protection

12 quickdraws with a 3 bolt anchor.

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It's possible to rap from the 3-bolt anchor with a 70m rope. I added some new webbing to the anchors, although it could really use some chain up there. Probably worth bringing some spare webbing with you if you are going to climb it. Jun 5, 2016
Cambio
Oconomowoc, WI
 
Cambio   Oconomowoc, WI
 
This was a very fun route and very challenging for me as climber who is not terribly 5.10 experienced. The wind was very strong and blew me off twice, use a right foot around the arete to hold on to the wall near the first 5.10c crux. Jun 13, 2008
Richard Beller
  5.10c
Richard Beller  
  5.10c
This is a great long route with two distinct crux sections. I remember it being just as hard as Backpaddle, which seemed more like 10c to me. Mar 21, 2005
Adrian Hill
  5.10c
Adrian Hill  
  5.10c
After the short crack/flake section following the 7th bolt, step back right just before the 8th bolt. The bolt is not immediately obvious because you're facing left while in the crack. There are a couple of tricky moves past the 8th bolt, in keeping with the rest of the route.

Great climbing throughout. As good as The Black Tube, which Gillett says is the best route on the crag. May 17, 2004