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Routes in Jug Dome aka Anne's Rock

Adam's Rib S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Backpaddle S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Tube, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brown Hangers S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crystal Jug S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dick Van Dike S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Jump Start S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Law School S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Love Canal S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rasp, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shag S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: Snively, Gillett, Huntsman
Page Views: 2,062 total · 10/month
Shared By: Old Fart aka Dave Bohn on May 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Given the name of the adjacent route to the left, "Law School" we were tempted to call this one "Walking the Green Mile". This is currently the furthest east (right) route on the rock. Scramble up to the first clip and wander past a few more hard to see clips until you can step left into a large, right-facing dihedral lined in fist-sized and larger quartz crystals, (some of questionable solidity). Step back right at the top, surmount a short headwall (crux), and get on the "Green Mile". This is a long, very fine grained, green intrusion that the rest of the climb follows. We were all tempted to use the fat crystals to either side, but in the end we all "Walked the Mile". Be aware that the clips are a long way apart through this section and several are impossible to see until your right on top of them. I would not suggest this route to a 5.9 leader whose only experience is in "Sport Bolted" climbs. The climbing up "The Mile" is probably only in the 5.7 range, but the leader needs to be comfortable running it out a bit. (As an aside, we also top-roped a direct connection to the headwall section, avoiding the traverse left into the dihedral staying well to the right. Excellent edging and if bolted would only take 3 clips or so as a variation, 10a/b, and would be a stupendous route.)

Protection

14- 16 clips plus anchors.

Descent

It's a double rope rap to get off (or 2 raps (single rope) using the intermediate anchors of "Law School" directly below to the west, down 75').

Photos

JFM
 
JFM  
 
Closely enough bolted in the bottom (more difficult) section to be comfortable for the new 5.9 leader.

The large crystal inclusion in the middle seemed solid today, 7/31/14.

The upper part does have some spacing between the bolts as described, but it is over considerably easier terrain (see the comment above), especially if the leader chooses to use the crystals and sidepulls bordering the "green mile" section.

A viable plan B for when the rock through Law School's first four bolts is wet. Jul 31, 2014
Joel Larner
Fort Collins, CO
Joel Larner   Fort Collins, CO
This is a great route as a first 5.9 lead. The bolts are surprisingly close together, so the comfort level is quite high for a 5.9 lead.

After climbing the quartz crystals, there are two variations for getting back up onto the face. Lie-back the flake for the easier way up. You'll see it when you get there. Nov 7, 2004
Good route harder towards the bottom, I would rate the top 5.5 or 5.6. Very good climb for someone who can easily do a 5.8. Oct 5, 2003
Sorry, forgot to mention, it's a double rope rap to get off (or 2 raps (single rope) using the intermediate anchors of "Law School" directly below to the west, down 75'). Feb 20, 2002

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