Type: Sport, 170 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Matt Quinn/Tom Kohlman, 2008
Page Views: 2,183 total · 19/month
Shared By: Wes B. on Sep 20, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


14 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Pitch 1 (5.7, 90 feet)
Start 15' east of Love Canal on a steep fin to reach a bolt 20' off the ground (or you can get to this bolt by walking up the fin on the left side). Continue past the first bolt clipping three/four more bolts to the anchor. The crux of the climb is between bolt two and bolt three.

Pitch 2 (5.6, 80 feet)
From the anchor, look up and to the left to see the first bolt of pitch two. From there follow the line of bolts (6 bolts) along easy and well protected rock.

NOTE - Expect serious rope drag if climbing this route in one long pitch. We also had some difficulty pulling the rope after a double rope rappel.

Protection

4 quickdraws for P1, 6 quickdraws for P2, 2 two bolt anchors with twisted links.

Photos

Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
Watch out for the cactus above the 1st bolt on the right. Oct 25, 2011
Dave Clark 5.10
Golden, CO
  5.7
Dave Clark 5.10   Golden, CO
  5.7
My partner and I thought the crux was the near the start of P2, which was probably 5.8 by modern standards. So beware the 5.6 rating for P2. Nothing too difficult on P1 unless the 16-ft bolt spacing bothers you. Sep 13, 2018