Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Snively and Gillett
Page Views: 257 total · 1/month
Shared By: Kurt Johnson on Feb 23, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

This is the only bolted route on the upper tier of Jug Dome and is the most obvious and unique line. It follows bolts up a wide groove in the center of the face, which can be climbed using all manner of technique, from crystal crimping to chimneying. The bolts end at a ledge from where one can rappel from a 2-bolt anchor, but we continued left and up easier ground to the summit, after which we walked off to the west. A word of caution: my partner Chad broke a hold before clipping the first bolt. Like other routes at this newly-climbed crag, you should test all holds before committing to them.

Protection

8 quickdraws, 2 bolt anchor.
This climb has a bit of a difficult start and has sharp holds that will rip your hands apart. When you get down, there is a walk down if you don't want to rappel down to the very bottom by Law School. This walk down is the worst one I've ever seen, very confusing unless you want to jump off a cliff. We went all the way down to the road because we couldn't figure out where to go. It is a good climb though, has a chimney that's very thin but fun. Nov 15, 2003
Joel Larner
Fort Collins, CO
  5.8-
Joel Larner   Fort Collins, CO
  5.8-
A fun route, something different. Watch the rock quality however, as not all the holds can be trusted. I had one hold come off in my hand. It was just layers of mica flaking apart. Be careful. Nov 7, 2004
Brian C.
Longmont, CO
Brian C.   Longmont, CO
I felt that the opening of this was harder than 5.8. I think that a few holds have broken off making this trickier. Once above the first bolt, it's all good though. Pretty fun route. Sep 24, 2011
Dave Clark 5.10
Golden, CO
  5.8+
Dave Clark 5.10   Golden, CO
  5.8+
An interesting and well-named route with fun problem solving involving face climbing, a bit o' chimney, and lots of great stemming. It has apparently cleaned up as I didn't encounter any choss. There was some furry lichen on the right wall but not where you needed to use it. Sep 13, 2018