Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Jug Dome aka Anne's Rock

Adam's Rib S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Backpaddle S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Tube, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brown Hangers S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crystal Jug S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dick Van Dike S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Jump Start S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Law School S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Love Canal S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rasp, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shag S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 515 total, 13/month
Shared By: DebColorado McLain on Jul 27, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


8 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Scramble up to the base of the route, and clip the first bolt, then head straight up the bolt line on some large, solid flakes. Continue to a crux between the 4th and 5th bolt, then look for the hidden 7th bolt. After this bolt, it's about a 25-foot runout on 5.5 terrain to the anchors, but there's a flake on the right that will take some gear if you're not comfortable with the runout.

We belayed from the ground next to a large rock outcropping with a 70m rope (and had plenty of rope left), but your belayer can scramble up to the ledge at the start of the route and belay from there with a 60m rope.

Rap off from the anchors.

Location

After you reach the crag on the approach trail, go right and locate the two 5.7 routes, Love Canal and Crystal Jug. Then keep walking right (east) along the base of the wall down a short hill and slightly uphill for about 25 yards. You'll end up at the rock outcropping and see the bolts starting on a series of large flakes...plus you can see the anchors, too.

Protection

7 draws plus a large cam if you want to protect the runout. 2 bolts for anchors at the top.

Photos

lukematschek
Fort Collins, CO
  5.9
lukematschek   Fort Collins, CO
  5.9
Felt harder than 5.8. The run out is nothing to worry about at all. Feb 29, 2016
Bill Farrand  
 
I don't know what the person who wrote the route description meant by bringing a large cam for the last runout. I didn't see anyplace great to place a cam. There was a piton in the middle of that section, so I didn't even find it that bad of a run out. It is kind of a pumpy climb for the grade. Aug 9, 2015
Chris Ilg
Boulder, CO
  5.8
Chris Ilg   Boulder, CO
  5.8
I climbed this route this weekend. I thought it was pretty straightforward except making the clip for the 5th (?) bolt. There is a very large, roundy protuberance to clip from, but I couldn't figure out how to position my feet to make this a 5.8 move. If you can figure that out, it's 5.8. If you are like me and can't figure out how to use the protuberance more effectively, then this clip is more like a 5.9 move, IMHO. Otherwise, a nice route and a good addition to the area. Thanks!

Does anyone know the name of this route? Jul 28, 2014