PRINT: Rock Climb Unknown, Estes Park Valley

Unknown

5.9, Sport, 90 ft (27 m),

Avg: 2.3 from 20 votes
FA: unknown
Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Big Thompson Ca… > Jug Dome aka Anne's Rock

Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023 Details

Update: per Bruce Hildenbrand: the area has been open since 2023.

Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.

Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.

I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.

Description

Scramble up to the base of the route, and clip the first bolt, then head straight up the bolt line on some large, solid flakes. Continue to a crux between the 4th and 5th bolt, then look for the hidden 7th bolt. After this bolt, it's about a 25-foot runout on 5.5 terrain to the anchors, but there's a flake on the right that will take some gear if you're not comfortable with the runout.

We belayed from the ground next to a large rock outcropping with a 70m rope (and had plenty of rope left), but your belayer can scramble up to the ledge at the start of the route and belay from there with a 60m rope.

Rap off from the anchors.

Location

After you reach the crag on the approach trail, go right and locate the two 5.7 routes, Love Canal and Crystal Jug. Then keep walking right (east) along the base of the wall down a short hill and slightly uphill for about 25 yards. You'll end up at the rock outcropping and see the bolts starting on a series of large flakes...plus you can see the anchors, too.

Protection

7 draws plus a large cam if you want to protect the runout. 2 bolts for anchors at the top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The route.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Anona I.
Boulder, CO

5.8

I climbed this route this weekend. I thought it was pretty straightforward except making the clip for the 5th (?) bolt. There is a very large, roundy protuberance to clip from, but I couldn't figure out how to position my feet to make this a 5.8 move. If you can figure that out, it's 5.8. If you are like me and can't figure out how to use the protuberance more effectively, then this clip is more like a 5.9 move, IMHO. Otherwise, a nice route and a good addition to the area. Thanks!

Does anyone know the name of this route? Jul 28, 2014

Bill Farrand

I don't know what the person who wrote the route description meant by bringing a large cam for the last runout. I didn't see anyplace great to place a cam. There was a piton in the middle of that section, so I didn't even find it that bad of a run out. It is kind of a pumpy climb for the grade. Aug 9, 2015

lukematschek
Fort Collins, CO

5.9

Felt harder than 5.8. The run out is nothing to worry about at all. Feb 29, 2016

Chris Swope
Greeley, co

Fun newish route. I agree the 5th clip is probably the crux of the route just a little balancy. No need for gear, you can clip the pin towards the top if needed. Get a nice pump on it, and the bolts are close together, so watch the Z-clipping. Worth a trip over to it if you're at the crag. Nov 27, 2018