Mary's Bust - main buttress Rock Climbing
|GPS:||40.416, -105.375 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||allen simons on Jun 3, 2003 · Updates|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Mary's Bust has been a tall, steep fairly dangerous rock, save for a few one pitch bolted lines that has seen a lot of fine development in the last two years. As of now, multiple well bolted lines cover the main face from every angle including some very steep multi-pitch lines around the left side of the main rock accessed from the gully. Routes range in difficulty from 5.7 to 5.12 with a bit of everything in between. Climbs vary somewhat. Much of the rock is rough granite with sharp crystal feldspar holds capturing the full range of sizes. There are also some climbs with good, smooth jugs as well as slabs, and chimneys. Routes often include a combination of the above. I believe from a historical standpoint " Mary's Bust" first referred to the main, large, steep formation that has seen most of the recent activity (see the photo to the right). Due to the development of the area, all of the rocks compose the Mary's Bust complex or area. Recent posting of the Sugar Cube near the access trail as well as the Main Mary's Right Bust, the slabby Mary's Left Bust, Tick Rock, and Moonlight Rock are all found in the immediate area as well as some other developments that for now are nameless. There some old trad lines in the mix and some routes take supplemental gear in between the bolts. The main approach is well-defined now and requires a short, steep hike. Approaches to subareas like Tick Rock and Moonlight Rock involve 10-20 minute, steep hikes up from the road. All in all, this area has developed into a nice crag with a great mix of shade and sun and with the southern exposure can allow for climbing on winter days as well. Great thanks to all who have developed this area.
Several bolted routes that are one pitch long. Both the north and south rocks are 400+ feet high.
A. Violet Blue, 11, 3p, 220', bolts. P1 11.
B. Moon Shadow, 12, 1-2p, 60', bolts.
C. ?There's Something About Mary?, 12-, 4p, 350', bolts. P1 5.0 X.
DC. Dirty Mary, 9, 1p, 60', bolts.
E. Mary's Tricks, 11-, 1p, 70', bolts.
F. Proud Mary, 12, 3p, 300', bolts. P1 9.
G Brown Palace, 11-, 6p, 470', bolts. P1 9.
GH. Brown Palace to Deceiver, 7 or 8, 1p, 80'.
H. Deceiver, 9+ or 10+, 1p, 80', bolts.
above H. ??, 11, 3p, 250', bolts.
above H. ?Fool Me Twice?, 11, 1p, 85', bolts & gear.
I. Dynamite, 10- R, 1p, bolts.
above I. The Broadmoor, 10- to 11, 6-7p, 450', bolts & gear.
J. Maternal Damnation, 10, 2p, 120', bolts. P1 10.
KJ. The Open Road, 11, 2p, 115', bolts.
K1. Disneyland, 10, 1p, 75', bolts.
K2. ??, 11, 6p, 475', bolts & gear.
L. Unnamed Crack, 10-?, bolts + gear.
M. Just in Time, 11, 1p, 90', bolts.
N. Stuck in Time, 11, 2p, 175', bolts. P1 9.
O. Frisky Lady, 12-/12, 1p, 90', bolts.
above N. Contrivance, 10-, 1p, bolts.
P. Mary's Jugs, 7, 1p, 50', bolts.
Q. Convolution, 11, 1p, above P, bolts.
R. Out of Time, 11, 2p, 200', bolts. P1 10.
S. Expeliarmus, 12-, 1p, 135', bolts.
T. Wingardium Leviosa, 11-, 1p, 105', bolts & gear.
Above Mary's Bust (Golden Hall)
Upper west face of Mary's Bust
A.??, 5.10-, 1p, 55', bolts & gear.
B.??, 5.10c, 1p, 70', bolts.
Classic Climbing Routes at Mary's Bust - main buttress
Days w Precip