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Elevation: 6,819 ft 2,078 m
GPS: 40.41571, -105.37543
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 64,336 total · 250/month
Shared By: allen simons on Jun 3, 2003 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023 DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Peregrine nesting on The Broadmoor! DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Someone updated this description as of 9-28-09.

Mary's Bust has been a tall, steep fairly dangerous rock, save for a few one pitch bolted lines that has seen a lot of fine development in the last two years. As of now, multiple well bolted lines cover the main face from every angle including some very steep multi-pitch lines around the left side of the main rock accessed from the gully. Routes range in difficulty from 5.7 to 5.12 with a bit of everything in between. Climbs vary somewhat. Much of the rock is rough granite with sharp crystal feldspar holds capturing the full range of sizes. There are also some climbs with good, smooth jugs as well as slabs, and chimneys. Routes often include a combination of the above. I believe from a historical standpoint " Mary's Bust" first referred to the main, large, steep formation that has seen most of the recent activity (see the photo to the right). Due to the development of the area, all of the rocks compose the Mary's Bust complex or area. Recent posting of the Sugar Cube near the access trail as well as the Main Mary's Right Bust, the slabby Mary's Left Bust, Tick Rock, and Moonlight Rock are all found in the immediate area as well as some other developments that for now are nameless. There some old trad lines in the mix and some routes take supplemental gear in between the bolts. The main approach is well-defined now and requires a short, steep hike. Approaches to subareas like Tick Rock and Moonlight Rock involve 10-20 minute, steep hikes up from the road. All in all, this area has developed into a nice crag with a great mix of shade and sun and with the southern exposure can allow for climbing on winter days as well. Great thanks to all who have developed this area.

Getting There Suggest change

From the Beige Siphon Tube at the mouth of the narrows, drive west taking the left fork of the road at Drake. Pullout 9.4 miles from the Siphon Tube.

Several bolted routes that are one pitch long. Both the north and south rocks are 400+ feet high.

L->R:

Suggest change
Mary's Bust - left buttress.

gully

West Face

A. Violet Blue, 11, 3p, 220', bolts. P1 11.
B. Moon Shadow, 12, 1-2p, 60', bolts.
C. ?There's Something About Mary?, 12-, 4p, 350', bolts. P1 5.0 X.
DC. Dirty Mary, 9, 1p, 60', bolts.
E. Mary's Tricks, 11-, 1p, 70', bolts.

South Face
F. Proud Mary, 12, 3p, 300', bolts. P1 9.
G Brown Palace, 11-, 6p, 470', bolts. P1 9.
GH. Brown Palace to Deceiver, 7 or 8, 1p, 80'.
H. Deceiver, 9+ or 10+, 1p, 80', bolts.
above H. ??, 11, 3p, 250', bolts.
above H. ?Fool Me Twice?, 11, 1p, 85', bolts & gear.
I. Dynamite, 10- R, 1p, bolts.
above I. The Broadmoor, 10- to 11, 6-7p, 450', bolts & gear.
J. Maternal Damnation, 10, 2p, 120', bolts. P1 10.
KJ. The Open Road, 11, 2p, 115', bolts.
K1. Disneyland, 10, 1p, 75', bolts.
K2. ??, 11, 6p, 475', bolts & gear.
L. Unnamed Crack, 10-?, bolts + gear.
M. Just in Time, 11, 1p, 90', bolts.
N. Stuck in Time, 11, 2p, 175', bolts. P1 9.

50' flake

O. Frisky Lady, 12-/12, 1p, 90', bolts.
above N. Contrivance, 10-, 1p, bolts.
P. Mary's Jugs, 7, 1p, 50', bolts.
Q. Convolution, 11, 1p, above P, bolts.
R. Out of Time, 11, 2p, 200', bolts. P1 10.
S. Expeliarmus, 12-, 1p, 135', bolts.
T. Wingardium Leviosa, 11-, 1p, 105', bolts & gear.

Above Mary's Bust (Golden Hall)

Gold Wall

Upper west face of Mary's Bust

A.??, 5.10-, 1p, 55', bolts & gear.
B.??, 5.10c, 1p, 70', bolts.

21 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Mary's Bust - main buttress Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Mary's Bust - main buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
 29
Dynamite
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 46
Maternal Damnation
Sport 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 65
The Broadmoor
Sport 6 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 15
Disneyland
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 57
Mary's Tricks
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 131
The Brown Palace
Sport 6 pitches
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 4
Wingardium Leviosa
Trad, Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 12
Just in Time
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 21
Stuck In Time
Sport 2 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 36
Violet Blue
Sport 3 pitches
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 8
The Open Road
Sport 2 pitches
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 19
Proud Mary
Sport 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Dynamite
 29
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R Sport
Maternal Damnation
 46
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
The Broadmoor
 65
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport 6 pitches
Disneyland
 15
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Mary's Tricks
 57
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
The Brown Palace
 131
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport 6 pitches
Wingardium Leviosa
 4
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Sport
Just in Time
 12
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Stuck In Time
 21
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport 2 pitches
Violet Blue
 36
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport 3 pitches
The Open Road
 8
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport 2 pitches
Proud Mary
 19
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport 3 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Mary's Bust - main buttress »

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