Elevation: 6,807 ft
GPS: 40.416, -105.375 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 46,850 total · 225/month
Shared By: allen simons on Jun 3, 2003 with improvements by Ken Duncan and 1 other
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

Description

Someone updated this description as of 9-28-09.

Mary's Bust has been a tall, steep fairly dangerous rock, save for a few one pitch bolted lines that has seen a lot of fine development in the last two years. As of now, multiple well bolted lines cover the main face from every angle including some very steep multi-pitch lines around the left side of the main rock accessed from the gully. Routes range in difficulty from 5.7 to 5.12 with a bit of everything in between. Climbs vary somewhat. Much of the rock is rough granite with sharp crystal feldspar holds capturing the full range of sizes. There are also some climbs with good, smooth jugs as well as slabs, and chimneys. Routes often include a combination of the above. I believe from a historical standpoint " Mary's Bust" first referred to the main, large, steep formation that has seen most of the recent activity (see the photo to the right). Due to the development of the area, all of the rocks compose the Mary's Bust complex or area. Recent posting of the Sugar Cube near the access trail as well as the Main Mary's Right Bust, the slabby Mary's Left Bust, Tick Rock, and Moonlight Rock are all found in the immediate area as well as some other developments that for now are nameless. There some old trad lines in the mix and some routes take supplemental gear in between the bolts. The main approach is well-defined now and requires a short, steep hike. Approaches to subareas like Tick Rock and Moonlight Rock involve 10-20 minute, steep hikes up from the road. All in all, this area has developed into a nice crag with a great mix of shade and sun and with the southern exposure can allow for climbing on winter days as well. Great thanks to all who have developed this area.

Getting There

From the Beige Siphon Tube at the mouth of the narrows, drive west taking the left fork of the road at Drake. Pullout 9.4 miles from the Siphon Tube.

Several bolted routes that are one pitch long. Both the north and south rocks are 400+ feet high.

L->R:

Mary's Bust - left buttress.

gully

West Face

A. Violet Blue, 11, 3p, 220', bolts. P1 11.
B. Moon Shadow, 12, 1-2p, 60', bolts.
C. There's Something About Mary, 12-, 4p, 350', bolts. P1 5.0 X.
DC. Dirty Mary, 9, 1p, 60', bolts.
E. Mary's Tricks, 11-, 1p, 70', bolts.

South Face
F. Proud Mary, 12, 3p, 300', bolts. P1 9.
G Brown Palace, 11-, 6p, 470', bolts. P1 9.
GH. Brown Palace to Deceiver, 7 or 8, 1p, 80'.
H. Deceiver, 9+ or 10+, 1p, 80', bolts.
above H. Lie Detector, 11, 3p, 250', bolts.
above H. Fool Me Twice, 11, 1p, 85', bolts & gear.
I. Dynamite, 10- R, 1p, bolts.
above I. The Broadmoor, 10- to 11, 6-7p, 450', bolts & gear.
J. Maternal Damnation, 10, 2p, 120', bolts. P1 10.
KJ. The Open Road, 11, 2p, 115', bolts.
K1. Disneyland, 10, 1p, 75', bolts.
K2. New Direction, 11, 6p, 475', bolts & gear.
L. Unnamed Crack, 10-?, bolts + gear.
M. Just in Time, 11, 1p, 90', bolts.
N. Stuck in Time, 11, 2p, 175', bolts. P1 9.

50' flake

O. Frisky Lady, 12-/12, 1p, 90', bolts.
above N. Contrivance, 10-, 1p, bolts.
P. Mary's Jugs, 7, 1p, 50', bolts.
Q. Convolution, 11, 1p, above P, bolts.
R. Out of Time, 11, 2p, 200', bolts. P1 10.
S. Expeliarmus, 12-, 1p, 135', bolts.
T. Wingardium Leviosa, 11-, 1p, 105', bolts & gear.

Above Mary's Bust (Golden Hall)

Gold Wall

Upper west face of Mary's Bust

A.Big Horn, 5.10-, 1p, 55', bolts & gear.
B.Wiggle Room, 5.10c, 1p, 70', bolts.

24 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Mary's Bust - main buttress Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Mary's Bust - main buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
 26
Dynamite
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 41
Maternal Damnation
Sport 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 45
The Broadmoor
Sport 6 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 14
Disneyland
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 47
Mary's Tricks
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 97
The Brown Palace
Sport 6 pitches
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 11
Just in Time
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 3
Wingardium Leviosa
Trad, Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 20
Stuck In Time
Sport 2 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 22
Out Of Time
Sport 2 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 31
Violet Blue
Sport 3 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 5
Lie Detector
Sport 3 pitches
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 4
The Open Road
Sport 2 pitches
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 9
Frisky Lady
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 16
Proud Mary
Sport 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Dynamite
 26
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R Sport
Maternal Damnation
 41
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
The Broadmoor
 45
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport 6 pitches
Disneyland
 14
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Mary's Tricks
 47
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
The Brown Palace
 97
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport 6 pitches
Just in Time
 11
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Wingardium Leviosa
 3
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Sport
Stuck In Time
 20
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport 2 pitches
Out Of Time
 22
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport 2 pitches
Violet Blue
 31
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport 3 pitches
Lie Detector
 5
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport 3 pitches
The Open Road
 4
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport 2 pitches
Frisky Lady
 9
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Proud Mary
 16
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport 3 pitches
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