Avg: 2.9 from 52 votes
|Type:||Sport, 450 ft (136 m), 6 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Bernard Gillett and Roger Briggs, 2010|
|Page Views:||12,860 total · 93/month|
|Shared By:||Orphaned User on Apr 24, 2010|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
This is a good 6 pitch route. The 2nd pitch is probably the best pitch.
P2. Move up into a pod going left higher up (9+) to enjoy a great bit or rock. An optional #5 Hex or large wire (2/3rds the way up the pitch) and 8 bolts provide protection.
P3. Climb left onto a rib (10-), and follow bolts through a bulge to a ledge.
P4. Continue up a headwall (10-), hop an overlap, and go up to a a belay (a #0.75 or #1 Camalot will reduce the runout).
The original climb ended here. All pitches are about ~90 feet. You can rappel route with a 60m rope from here.
P5. Traverse left, and then angle up to the bolts at the base of the P5 on The Brown Palace/P4? of ?There's Something About Mary?), 50 feet. A #2 & #0.75 Camalots (4 R) and a bolt protect the pitch.
P6. Finish with P6 of Brown Palace, 9 bolts, 10+.
THE STANLEY HOTEL is another optional finish (FA: Gillett, with Chris Hill, 2010).
After P1-4 of The Broadmoor, continue up and right eventually to the summit, not easy to rappel off.
P5. Traverse right on a ledge from the belay, and cruise up a ladder of jugs (3 bolts, 5.3) to a ledge, clip a directional bolt, and move right on the ledge for 20 feet to below an overhang and belay bolts on the top of a ramp.
P6. Climb a cruxy overhang (11 for tall folks, harder for shorter folks), and move up a short 5.10 wall to a 2 bolt belay on the right, a great ledge at the base of a water tube (4 bolts). Short folks can aid the roof with a long sling or two. A judicious belay spot can keep the rope out of the way of the leader, perhaps dropping down the ramp about below the belay.
P7. Move up the water tube to the top, and belay at a tree (6, 80 feet). A #1 Camalot, a large and a small wire, slings, and two bolts protect this pitch.
Descent for The Stanley Hotel: scramble off the back side of Mary's Bust to the rappels on Devil's Backbone. If you can't surmount the 5.11 overhang, and don't want to aid it, downclimb the 5.3 5th pitch and then rappel the original route.
Bring 14 QDs, a #5 Hex or large wire, and a #0.75 and/or #1 Camalot. #0.75 and #1/#2 Camalots are suggested for the continuation to The Brown Palace. For The Stanley Hotel, bring a #1 Camalot, a few wires, and a couple slings. Obviously, if you link pitches, additional quickdraws and longer slings will help reduce drag. You can link P1 and 2 (beginning with MD) for a more comfortable belay on Dynamite. You can link P3 and 4 for speed (beware of potential ledgefall).