Type: Sport, 450 ft, 6 pitches, Grade II
FA: Bernard Gillett and Roger Briggs, 2010
Page Views: 9,462 total · 89/month
Shared By: Bernard Gillett on Apr 24, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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The Broadmoor is a fun route that climbs the buttress above Dynamite. Its first four pitches are all similarly graded; the 2nd pitch will put a smile on your face (superb climbing along a wide dike of perfect rock).

P1. Do the first pitch of Dynamite (5.10b). Or, do the first pitch of Maternal Damnation (5.10b), moving left past an additional bolt to the anchors on Dynamite (semi-hanging belay). 8-10 bolts, depending on which pitch you choose.

P2. Stem up into a steep pod, and pull left near its top (committing 5.9+) to gain access to a fine stretch of climbing with excellent stone. A #5 Hex or big wire can be placed 2/3 of the way up the pitch, though it's reasonable without it. The pitch ends at a good stance with chains (8 bolts).

P3. Move left onto a broad rib (5.10a early on), and follow 8 bolts through an easy overhang at the end of the pitch. Belay on a great ledge at chains.

P4. Go straight up a steep headwall (5.10a), weave through an overlap, and continue up to a good stance with chains (I think there are 9 bolts on this pitch). A #0.75 Camalot in a horizontal is a good idea; expect a runout if you don't bring one. EDIT: A #1 Camalot actually fits better; you may be able to cram both of them in there.

This is the end of the route as originally conceived. All pitches are about 85-95 feet. Rappel the route (4 rappels, 60 meter rope). One may also continue onward....

P5. Head straight left from the belay, and then up and left to the bolts at the base of the last pitch on The Brown Palace (also the last pitch of There's Something About Mary), 50 feet. Bring a #2 and #0.75 Camalot on this easy though runout pitch (5.3? R) -- a tipped-out #1 Camalot also works in the #2 slot. At the end of the lead, you can clip the final bolt on pitch 5 of Brown Palace, though it'll cause some rope drag. There's some loose rock up there, though if you climb smart, it is all easily avoided.

P6. Do the last pitch of Brown Palace, 9 bolts, 5.10d.

Those completing the optional finish should rappel Brown Palace (6 raps, 60 m rope), or climb over the top and traverse to the rappels on Devil's Backbone. See The Brown Palace for more descent info.

9-18-10 EDIT: Yet another optional finish (FA: Gillett, with Chris Hill, 2010).

If after finishing The Broadmoor proper (its first 4 pitches) you want more, continue up and right to The Stanley Hotel finish, which leads to the summit. It's not easy to rappel off of this finish: plan on going to the top.

P5. Traverse right on a ledge from the belay and waltz up a delightful ladder of buckets (3 bolts, 5.3) to a good ledge, clip a directional bolt, and walk right on the ledge for 20 feet. A bolted overhang lies overhead, and you'll find belay bolts (no chains) 10 feet below on the top of a ramp.

P6. Boulder over the lip of the overhang (5.11 for tall people), and continue up a short 5.10 wall to a double bolt belay (no chains) on the right, a great ledge at the base of a water tube (4 bolts). You'll want to pick a spot for the belayer that keeps the rope out of the way of the leader -- I suggest dropping down the ramp about 15 feet from the belay bolts. Short folks may want to bring a long sling or two and be prepared to aid over the roof (5 feet of aid on bolts).

P7. Go straight up the water tube to the top, and belay at a tree (5.6, 80 feet). I used a #1 Camalot, 2 wires (one big and one small), slings around two horns on the right, and two bolts at the top for protection.

Descent for The Stanley Hotel: scramble off the back side of Mary's Bust to the rappels on Devil's Backbone. If you can't surmount the 5.11 overhang, and don't want to aid it, down climb the 5.3 5th pitch and then rappel the original route.

Extra Credit: if you stop after 4 pitches and rappel the route, you'll have a top rope set up on the face between Dynamite and Maternal Damnation. There are a number of ways one could choose to go here: I began about half way between the two, and didn't stray over to Dynamite (which is the more obvious choice about midway up the wall), finding 5.11- face climbing.


The Broadmoor lies above and a little left of the first pitch of Dynamite, which begins about 30 feet left of the mine hole at the base of the wall, left center. One can also start with Maternal Damnation; it begins on a ledge immediately left of the mine hole. See topo.


Bring 14 QDs, a #5 Hex or large wire, and a #0.75 and/or #1 Camalot. #0.75 and #1/#2 Camalots are suggested for the continuation to The Brown Palace. For The Stanley Hotel, you'll want a #1 Camalot, a few wires, and a couple slings. Long slings and extra QDs are useful for pitch linkage. We linked #1 and 2 (beginning with MD) to avoid the hanging belay on Dynamite, and then linked #3 and 4 to move fast (be mindful of rope stretch leading to a potential ledge fall if you do it this way).


Bernard, looking forward to this, Allen. Apr 27, 2010
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
I self-belayed this yesterday via P1 of Maternal Damnation. Had a hard time and hung at bolts 5 and 6 of Maternal Damnation, but otherwise it went well and clean. I was pretty beat by the end, and my feet hurt from all the knobs. P2 (P1 of Broadmoor proper) was the most fun with a wild swing left (on a slab!) and the smooth out of character brown rock above. P4 is steep at first and crumbly, but not bad. The missing bolt/0.75 cam placement is a little odd. The cam isn't great, and the moves there are fairly hard at maybe 5.9. Both P3 and P4 have the cruxes right off the belay. It would be wise for the leader of the previous pitch to continue 1 or 2 bolts higher and get lowered back to the belay to avoid factor 2'ing onto the anchor (or ledge fall on P4). May 9, 2010
Awesome route, thanks for putting in the work to bolt this beauty. I had a blast on the second pitch. May 17, 2010
Greg Sievers
Bozeman, MT
Greg Sievers   Bozeman, MT
This route was a hoot! For us locals, it was darn good fun for an after-work jaunt. Thanks for the effort to build it. It'll get even better after a bit of the grit wears off on P3 & 4. Jun 2, 2010
Doug Redosh
Golden, CO
Doug Redosh   Golden, CO
Great route! Very continuous, one of the most continous climbs I have ever done. Every move is 5.8 - 5.9 or harder, except for the top of P3. Jun 27, 2010
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Wow, this is really a terrific route. Thanks, Bernard and Roger. Jun 29, 2010
Bernard Gillett
Bernard Gillett  
A new three-pitch finish was added to this route on 9-18-10 (The Stanley Hotel finish, 5.11), resulting in a 7-pitch route to the summit. See revised description above. Sep 19, 2010
Stu Ritchie
Stu Ritchie   Denver
A very well put together route! Dynamite is the more direct start, although very slightly spicy. I found this route to be significantly more fun than its harder neighbor, the Brown Palace, a fine route in its own right. Sep 26, 2010
Jake Carroll
The Springs
Jake Carroll   The Springs
We found that the #5 hex on P2 was completely unnecessary. The bolts there are normally spaced, and there are great handholds all over the place. However, the #1 Camalot on P4 was definitely needed.

We decided to do the Maternal Damnation start, which was the hardest pitch of the day. All in all, super fun route. Definitely comparable to The Brown Palace in terms of quality, with the exception of the rock on P4. May 14, 2012
Chad R. Johnson
Loveland, CO
Chad R. Johnson   Loveland, CO
Great route! P2 is the standout, you won't stop smiling. A #1 was the only gear we used and that was on p4. Well worth getting up there just for p2. I agree with Jake, no hex needed on p2. Aug 22, 2012
Nat T.
Fort Collins, CO
Nat T.   Fort Collins, CO
Great route, did this on our second trip to The Bust. We did the Brown Palace last time, one of my favorite climbs of the summer for sure. Started with Maternal Damnation, and boy was it thin. I thought 5.10b was a little sandbagged, maybe 5.10 b/c. Awesome route, thanks to those who put all this (and the other fun routes) up. I'm glad everyone overlooks this place, what a fun rock! Sep 5, 2012
Brody Hatch
  5.10b PG13
Brody Hatch  
  5.10b PG13
Did this route Saturday the 1st. It was a beautiful day. We did the traverse fifth pitch and last pitch up the headwall (which is easily my favorite pitch for this route as well as the Brown Palace). On the pitch 5 traverse, about 15 feet left of the belay ledge, there is a block that looks like a great hand hold, though it's pretty loose. It has some chalk on it, so I don't know if it being loose is new or not. It's easily avoided, but if you're not thinking, you might naturally be drawn to it. Dec 3, 2012
Ken Duncan
Ft Collins, CO
Ken Duncan   Ft Collins, CO
Have done this route several times now and think that combining P1 of Maternal Damnation with the first pitch proper of Broadmoor gives one of the best pitches in the area. Have also combined pitches 3, 4, and 5 with a 70m rope (using every foot of rope). Great route! Jan 18, 2013
Loveland, CO
Mathias   Loveland, CO
Lost a hold:

On P2 (above the hollowed section full of crystals just past the first bolt), there is now a large hold missing, because I pulled it off. It was a nice, big hold up at the top of the hole but had dirt caked behind it. I don't think it makes that section too much harder. I was following, and once I got back on, I got through that little section just fine without it. So I don't think it's changed the grade of the pitch. It was pretty exciting though, I ended up below the P1 anchor. Luckily no one was below us. Jun 27, 2015
Castle Rock, CO
aikibujin   Castle Rock, CO
I climbed this route with the Stanley Hotel finish. A note on protecting the last pitch on the Stanley Hotel finish: not knowing the size of the “small and large wire” mentioned in the route description, I brought a whole set of stoppers but ended up not placing any. For anyone doing the Stanley Hotel finish, I don’t think any wires are necessary. There is a crack that probably eats up passive pro starting from the belay for the water tube, but it ends about 15 feet up, and the moves are secure enough I don’t think anyone needs to sew it up. You certainly have climbed much harder stuff to get this far, some were pretty runout too (*cough* Dynamite *cough*). The #1 or #0.75 Camalot you brought to protect the runout on P4 should be adequate to protect the initial crack. Above the crack there are a few chicken heads you can sling (bring a couple of long slings). When the chickenheads run out, there are two (or three?) bolts you can clip on increasingly low angle terrain. Belay from a pine tree, and enjoy the summit. Apr 11, 2016
Azissa Singh
Boulder, CO
Azissa Singh   Boulder, CO
Above average climbing, below average rock. Jul 2, 2016