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The Broadmoor
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.9 from 54
votes
Routes in Mary's Bust - main buttress
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Broadmoor, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Brown Palace, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Convolution S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Crusty, Old Curmudgeon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Deceiver S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Dirty Mary S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Disneyland T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Dynamite S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R |
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Expeliarmus S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Frisky Lady S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Just in Time S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mary's Jugs S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mary's Tricks S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Maternal Damnation S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Moon Shadow S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Open Road, The S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Out Of Time S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Proud Mary S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Stuck In Time S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Violet Blue S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Wingardium Leviosa T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
| Type: | Sport, 450 ft (136 m), 6 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Bernard Gillett and Roger Briggs, 2010 |
| Page Views: | 13,958 total · 89/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned User on Apr 24, 2010 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.?
Details
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
This is a good 6 pitch route. The 2nd pitch is probably the best pitch.
P1. Climb P1 of Dynamite, 10, 8 bolts, or P1 of Maternal Damnation,10, moving left past an additional bolt to the anchors on Dynamite (semi-hanging), 10 bolts.
P2. Move up into a pod going left higher up (9+) to enjoy a great bit or rock. An optional #5 Hex or large wire (2/3rds the way up the pitch) and 8 bolts provide protection.
P3. Climb left onto a rib (10-), and follow bolts through a bulge to a ledge.
P4. Continue up a headwall (10-), hop an overlap, and go up to a a belay (a #0.75 or #1 Camalot will reduce the runout).
The original climb ended here. All pitches are about ~90 feet. You can rappel route with a 60m rope from here.
P5. Traverse left, and then angle up to the bolts at the base of the P5 on The Brown Palace/P4? of ?There's Something About Mary?), 50 feet. A #2 & #0.75 Camalots (4 R) and a bolt protect the pitch.
P6. Finish with P6 of Brown Palace, 9 bolts, 10+.
You can rappel Brown Palace with a 60m rope, or climb up and traverse to the rappels on Devil's Backbone.
THE STANLEY HOTEL is another optional finish (FA: Gillett, with Chris Hill, 2010).
After P1-4 of The Broadmoor, continue up and right eventually to the summit, not easy to rappel off.
P5. Traverse right on a ledge from the belay, and cruise up a ladder of jugs (3 bolts, 5.3) to a ledge, clip a directional bolt, and move right on the ledge for 20 feet to below an overhang and belay bolts on the top of a ramp.
P6. Climb a cruxy overhang (11 for tall folks, harder for shorter folks), and move up a short 5.10 wall to a 2 bolt belay on the right, a great ledge at the base of a water tube (4 bolts). Short folks can aid the roof with a long sling or two. A judicious belay spot can keep the rope out of the way of the leader, perhaps dropping down the ramp about below the belay.
P7. Move up the water tube to the top, and belay at a tree (6, 80 feet). A #1 Camalot, a large and a small wire, slings, and two bolts protect this pitch.
Descent for The Stanley Hotel: scramble off the back side of Mary's Bust to the rappels on Devil's Backbone. If you can't surmount the 5.11 overhang, and don't want to aid it, downclimb the 5.3 5th pitch and then rappel the original route.
A bonus TR: if you stop earlier and rappel the route, you'll have a TR set up between Dynamite and Maternal Damnation with 5.11- face climbing.
Location
The Broadmoor lies above and left of the P1 of Dynamite, 30 feet left of the hole at the base of the wall. One can also start with Maternal Damnation; it begins on a ledge immediately left of the hole. See the topo.
Protection
Bring 14 QDs, a #5 Hex or large wire, and a #0.75 and/or #1 Camalot. #0.75 and #1/#2 Camalots are suggested for the continuation to The Brown Palace. For The Stanley Hotel, bring a #1 Camalot, a few wires, and a couple slings. Obviously, if you link pitches, additional quickdraws and longer slings will help reduce drag. You can link P1 and 2 (beginning with MD) for a more comfortable belay on Dynamite. You can link P3 and 4 for speed (beware of potential ledgefall).
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