Type: Sport, 450 ft, 6 pitches, Grade II
FA: Bernard Gillett and Roger Briggs, 2010
Page Views: 9,877 total · 89/month
Shared By: Bernard Gillett on Apr 24, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

The Broadmoor is a fun route that climbs the buttress above Dynamite. Its first four pitches are all similarly graded; the 2nd pitch will put a smile on your face (superb climbing along a wide dike of perfect rock).

P1. Do the first pitch of Dynamite (5.10b). Or, do the first pitch of Maternal Damnation (5.10b), moving left past an additional bolt to the anchors on Dynamite (semi-hanging belay). 8-10 bolts, depending on which pitch you choose.

P2. Stem up into a steep pod, and pull left near its top (committing 5.9+) to gain access to a fine stretch of climbing with excellent stone. A #5 Hex or big wire can be placed 2/3 of the way up the pitch, though it's reasonable without it. The pitch ends at a good stance with chains (8 bolts).

P3. Move left onto a broad rib (5.10a early on), and follow 8 bolts through an easy overhang at the end of the pitch. Belay on a great ledge at chains.

P4. Go straight up a steep headwall (5.10a), weave through an overlap, and continue up to a good stance with chains (I think there are 9 bolts on this pitch). A #0.75 Camalot in a horizontal is a good idea; expect a runout if you don't bring one. EDIT: A #1 Camalot actually fits better; you may be able to cram both of them in there.

This is the end of the route as originally conceived. All pitches are about 85-95 feet. Rappel the route (4 rappels, 60 meter rope). One may also continue onward....

P5. Head straight left from the belay, and then up and left to the bolts at the base of the last pitch on The Brown Palace (also the last pitch of There's Something About Mary), 50 feet. Bring a #2 and #0.75 Camalot on this easy though runout pitch (5.3? R) -- a tipped-out #1 Camalot also works in the #2 slot. At the end of the lead, you can clip the final bolt on pitch 5 of Brown Palace, though it'll cause some rope drag. There's some loose rock up there, though if you climb smart, it is all easily avoided.

P6. Do the last pitch of Brown Palace, 9 bolts, 5.10d.

Those completing the optional finish should rappel Brown Palace (6 raps, 60 m rope), or climb over the top and traverse to the rappels on Devil's Backbone. See The Brown Palace for more descent info.

9-18-10 EDIT: Yet another optional finish (FA: Gillett, with Chris Hill, 2010).

THE STANLEY HOTEL
If after finishing The Broadmoor proper (its first 4 pitches) you want more, continue up and right to The Stanley Hotel finish, which leads to the summit. It's not easy to rappel off of this finish: plan on going to the top.

P5. Traverse right on a ledge from the belay and waltz up a delightful ladder of buckets (3 bolts, 5.3) to a good ledge, clip a directional bolt, and walk right on the ledge for 20 feet. A bolted overhang lies overhead, and you'll find belay bolts (no chains) 10 feet below on the top of a ramp.

P6. Boulder over the lip of the overhang (5.11 for tall people), and continue up a short 5.10 wall to a double bolt belay (no chains) on the right, a great ledge at the base of a water tube (4 bolts). You'll want to pick a spot for the belayer that keeps the rope out of the way of the leader -- I suggest dropping down the ramp about 15 feet from the belay bolts. Short folks may want to bring a long sling or two and be prepared to aid over the roof (5 feet of aid on bolts).

P7. Go straight up the water tube to the top, and belay at a tree (5.6, 80 feet). I used a #1 Camalot, 2 wires (one big and one small), slings around two horns on the right, and two bolts at the top for protection.

Descent for The Stanley Hotel: scramble off the back side of Mary's Bust to the rappels on Devil's Backbone. If you can't surmount the 5.11 overhang, and don't want to aid it, down climb the 5.3 5th pitch and then rappel the original route.

Extra Credit: if you stop after 4 pitches and rappel the route, you'll have a top rope set up on the face between Dynamite and Maternal Damnation. There are a number of ways one could choose to go here: I began about half way between the two, and didn't stray over to Dynamite (which is the more obvious choice about midway up the wall), finding 5.11- face climbing.

Location

The Broadmoor lies above and a little left of the first pitch of Dynamite, which begins about 30 feet left of the mine hole at the base of the wall, left center. One can also start with Maternal Damnation; it begins on a ledge immediately left of the mine hole. See topo.

Protection

Bring 14 QDs, a #5 Hex or large wire, and a #0.75 and/or #1 Camalot. #0.75 and #1/#2 Camalots are suggested for the continuation to The Brown Palace. For The Stanley Hotel, you'll want a #1 Camalot, a few wires, and a couple slings. Long slings and extra QDs are useful for pitch linkage. We linked #1 and 2 (beginning with MD) to avoid the hanging belay on Dynamite, and then linked #3 and 4 to move fast (be mindful of rope stretch leading to a potential ledge fall if you do it this way).

Photos