All Locations > Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Big Thompson Canyon > Mary's Bust Area > Mary's Bust - main buttress
Avg: 2.1 from 16 votes
Routes in Mary's Bust - main buttress
|Broadmoor, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Brown Palace, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Convolution S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Deceiver S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Disneyland T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Dynamite S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R|
|Fool Me Twice T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Frisky Lady S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a|
|Just in Time S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Lie Detector S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Mary's Jugs S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Mary's Tricks S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Maternal Damnation S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Moon Shadow S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|New Direction T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Open Road, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Out Of Time S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Proud Mary S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Stuck In Time S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|There's Something About Mary T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Violet Blue S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Wingardium Leviosa T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Type:||Sport, 300 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Wright, Zimmerman, Tarrant FFA Stephen Nance and Shane Glazier , 2010|
|Page Views:||2,712 total, 20/month|
|Shared By:||Richard M. Wright on Aug 6, 2006|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionProud Mary may or may not be a work in progress. In its present form, it consists of three pitches, but two more await above. A final pitch would take a terrific position on the final dominant feature of MB. The linking pitch (P4), however, looks like it would require extensive cleaning and this may be enough to halt progress at three pitches.
In the current form, P1 is a very well protected slab, 100 feet, 5.9, on quite good stone. Double bolt anchor and chains get you to the ground.
P2 pulls a burly 5.11d right off the belay and remains hard for 30 feet. The midsection is a romp that leads to a devious rib that climbs more like an arete with micro-crimpers on both sides. The crimpers have seemed brutally hard so far, hence the A0. It is not clear how difficult this will be completely free, time will tell.
P3, still a project awaiting a no-falls red point burn. Climbing moves right on easy ground for 20 feet and fires up a lay-away seam that gets progressively more difficult. Very hard as the pitch nears the anchors. In the last trip through some possibilities started to emerge from the polished face on the right, so we are hoping that this pitch goes down free!!
Overall, PM climbs on stone typical of the BTC. It can be sharp in places, but is largely as solid as stone can get. I found myself still brushing off lichen in some spots. PM does differ from the routes on right side of the crag by getting good sun for most of the day.