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Routes in Mary's Bust - main buttress

Broadmoor, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brown Palace, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Convolution S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Deceiver S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Disneyland T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dynamite S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Fool Me Twice T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Frisky Lady S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Just in Time S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lie Detector S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mary's Jugs S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mary's Tricks S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Maternal Damnation S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moon Shadow S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
New Direction T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Open Road, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Out Of Time S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Proud Mary S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stuck In Time S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
There's Something About Mary T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Violet Blue S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wingardium Leviosa T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Wright, Zimmerman, Tarrant FFA Stephen Nance and Shane Glazier , 2010
Page Views: 2,712 total, 20/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Aug 6, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Proud Mary may or may not be a work in progress. In its present form, it consists of three pitches, but two more await above. A final pitch would take a terrific position on the final dominant feature of MB. The linking pitch (P4), however, looks like it would require extensive cleaning and this may be enough to halt progress at three pitches.

In the current form, P1 is a very well protected slab, 100 feet, 5.9, on quite good stone. Double bolt anchor and chains get you to the ground.

P2 pulls a burly 5.11d right off the belay and remains hard for 30 feet. The midsection is a romp that leads to a devious rib that climbs more like an arete with micro-crimpers on both sides. The crimpers have seemed brutally hard so far, hence the A0. It is not clear how difficult this will be completely free, time will tell.

P3, still a project awaiting a no-falls red point burn. Climbing moves right on easy ground for 20 feet and fires up a lay-away seam that gets progressively more difficult. Very hard as the pitch nears the anchors. In the last trip through some possibilities started to emerge from the polished face on the right, so we are hoping that this pitch goes down free!!

Overall, PM climbs on stone typical of the BTC. It can be sharp in places, but is largely as solid as stone can get. I found myself still brushing off lichen in some spots. PM does differ from the routes on right side of the crag by getting good sun for most of the day.


Proud Mary begins on the far left of MB just where the trail turns sharply uphill.


15 draws and a 60 meter rope. NB: it is now possible to rap straight down from the top of P3 in three steps of 100 feet, 90 feet, and 85 feet. The rap stations are 20 feet right of the climbing.
Ken Duncan
Ft Collins, CO
Ken Duncan   Ft Collins, CO
Did the first two pitches today linking the first 1 1/2 to the top of the pillar so that the belayer could see the leader on the rib. I don't think I'd want to be doing those very delicate clips with the belayer blind below the overhang and a fall potentially landing on the pillar. Managed to OS these pitches. The third was in the shade and too cold to try by the time we got there. Feb 7, 2013
Scott Matz
Loveland, CO
Scott Matz   Loveland, CO
Great Job, Stephen. I sure didn't free the 3rd pitch that night. It was late and looking way to heady for me. Jan 17, 2011
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
Nice job, Stephen !! My bet is that yours is the first real red point on P3. Each time that I have tried, my right foot smears kept popping off. Seemed like a lot of body tension was needed. I am also glad that it ticks in at 12c, + or - a tad. That was my first impression. In the last couple of years, it has been hard to find the partners to run the pitch, so that's another reason I'm glad you guys finally put it away!! Sep 7, 2010
Stephen Nance
Boulder, CO
Stephen Nance   Boulder, CO
All three pitches went down today in its entirety.

P1- 5.9, P2-.12b, P3-.12c.

Shane Glazier (my cousin) sent the 2nd pitch first go, then I sent the 3rd pitch my third burn, Shane also sent it his 3rd go right after me. Not as hard as I thought it would be but still strenuous. Sep 2, 2010
Stephen Nance
Boulder, CO
Stephen Nance   Boulder, CO
All moves went down the other day my first go, this should go free next trip to mary's hopefully. The last pitch is amazing!! It does need some cleaning and holds are still breaking off. Although I do not believe this will affect the crux move. My opinion, .12d. Although that opinion does not matter till it goes down free!! Aug 1, 2010
Stephen: I don't believe the 3rd pitch has been climbed free yet. I suspect your confusion arises from Cale's post. What he is describing is the 3rd pitch variation that I mentioned in my post: climb through the first several bolts of the 3rd pitch on Proud Mary, and then traverse right to the anchors on the top of Brown Palace's 3rd pitch. Done this way, the pitch is 5.10, and it avoids the last 4 or 5 bolts on Proud Mary; it also allows one to continue up the wall on the last 3 pitches of Brown Palace.

Take a look at the route locator photo/topo on the main Mary's Bust page; that should help visualize how it all fits together. May 14, 2010
Stephen Nance
Boulder, CO
Stephen Nance   Boulder, CO
So, I am confused.... The third pitch has or has not gone free yet?? May 14, 2010
Cale Farnham  
Scotty and I attempted to pull this one off tonight. Started the approach around 6.30pm scotty lead the first pitch quckly and I followed with similar speed. [Good job, Scotty.] I lead the second and got through everything up to the pinnacle below the arete. I managed to get the first 3 bolts then struggled with the next 3 or 4. Got to the 2nd bolt below the anchors and ran it out to the final bolt below the anchors. [Very very delicate climbing. Gravity hates you right now] scotty lead the 3rd and did it clean to the anchors that meet BP. Excellent pitch with tricky and exposed climbing. Stellar job, Scotty! I lead the 4th fairly tricky and getting over the roof system was the crux. But pretty short pitch to double anchors 50 or 60ft up. It was dark by this time so scotty and I rapped from here 4 raps 2 short 2 a bit longer. Definitely comming back to bag this one! Hell yeah scotty!! Aug 13, 2009
As Richard notes above, the third pitch has not yet gone free. A nice alternative if you want a free route to the summit: climb through the first several bolts on the 3rd pitch, passing a 5.10 slab crux. When it gets hard (it's pretty obvious), traverse straight right to the belay atop the 3rd pitch of The Brown Palace (also obvious: two bolts with shiny chains). It's an easy traverse (I did it on TR) that may feel a little better for the second with an additional bolt (which I have not yet placed, though Richard has given me permission to do so -- anyone who wants to put one in, go for it). The last 3 pitches of The Brown Palace go at 5.11a or so, 5.10-ish, and 5.10d; all you need are the QDs you brought along for Proud Mary.

See photo on main Mary's Bust page for route location. Jul 31, 2009
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
We tried to free the third pitch again in late June 2009. I still got spit off the last section 3-4 clips depending. Each time I try this pitch I am convinced that it should go down - perhaps a very soft slipper on the right foot will pick up more action on the right polished face...... TBC Jun 29, 2009
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
We jumped on PM again on May 11. While the arete on P2 proved a bit elusive, Mark did put it together on a second burn figuring it to come in at 5.12a/b. This seems about correct to me as well. The real problem with P2 of PM is linking the arete without a hang. The climbing is very tenuous and it is possible to come off at a moment's notice. It's not pumpy or powerful in any way, but the arete wants to spit you off just when you think you have it all sussed. Clipping is really dicey everywhere on the arete and probably adds a letter grade. Also, we found it difficult to communicate from the top of P1 to the climber above, they are out of sight after 40ft. A good solution for anyone else contemplating the route would be to set up a belay below the top of the pinacle preceeding the arete. This can be done by clipping a pair of bolts and possibly running a sling around the top of the pinacle for back up. It breaks P2 into two small pitches, but this might be useful for solving the arete. A bolt may be added for this purpose. May 12, 2008
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
Someone, not myself yet, may have done the rib free. Frankly, it's not really all that difficult. It's just tricky enough and continuous enough that it is easy to grab a hang and high clip. Stringing it together may simply be a matter of a little practice. I have not had a chance to return since my hip surgery. However, rehab is progressing fast enough that I was able to get out climbing for the last couple of weekends with only minor limitation. If weather holds, I may get back before the snow flies, if not, then by next spring. Nov 14, 2007
Decided to give Proud Mary a try today. Hadn't read the description in a while so was bummed at having to aid the rib - was releived that it was originally rated AO. There was chalk all the way so has it gone free? Initial bulge is pumpy and technical and clipping second bolt was desperate for me. had to hang to clip.
Great rock and the third pitch looks interesting.
Thanks again to developers. Nice to run out for a couple of hours and get completely thrashed! Nov 9, 2007