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Routes in Mary's Bust - main buttress

Broadmoor, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brown Palace, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Convolution S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Deceiver S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Disneyland T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dynamite S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Fool Me Twice T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Frisky Lady S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Just in Time S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lie Detector S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mary's Jugs S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mary's Tricks S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Maternal Damnation S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moon Shadow S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
New Direction T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Open Road, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Out Of Time S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Proud Mary S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stuck In Time S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
There's Something About Mary T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Violet Blue S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wingardium Leviosa T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Richard Wright, Mark Tarrant, May 2008
Page Views: 2,305 total, 20/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on May 12, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Deceiver completes a one pitch route that uses two bolts previously placed by unknown climbers. 30ft of face climbing shifts to well-protected, slab climbing above. Crux is passing the first clip and turned out to be deceptively easier than it appeared. Solid rock all the way and surprisingly clean for this crag.

Location

Begin just right of the start to Proud Mary. This routes ends at the lowest rap station for PM.

Protection

Ten draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.

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We did the start of this when doing Brown Palace today. The initial moves off the ground up until the 2nd bolt were easily on par with any moves on the rest of Brown Palace, including the 5.11a pitches. Not sure how this could be 10- and be consistent with other route grades at the crag. Aug 13, 2017
Rich Kelly
Boulder
  5.10b
Rich Kelly   Boulder
  5.10b
You may want to stick clip the 2nd bolt as you may hit the ground if you blow the 2nd clip, and if TR'ing someone, keep a tight rope on the opening moves, otherwise they could hit the ground hard if they slip off. Jun 11, 2017
tkessel Kessel
Windsor,CO
  5.10-
tkessel Kessel   Windsor,CO
  5.10-
Opening moves felt 10ish. May 2, 2017
brucelacroix
Portland, OR.
 
brucelacroix   Portland, OR.
 
I too, thought it was hard for the grade. Gave up and traversed in from the left. Jun 24, 2016
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.10b
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.10b
Agree with Greg here, I don't see how this is 5.9. I fact I don't think 10b is crazy given the steep pulls on small holds at the start, though I could see it being easier if you are tall. Fun route though. Feb 14, 2015
Greg Sievers
Bozeman, MT
Greg Sievers   Bozeman, MT
Well, the first move off the ground is super reach-dependent, and in this case awkward too, and with sharp pointy tips work. So, I've never found an "easier than it apprears" start. Perhaps solid .10 for 2 moves - or some sorta V bouldering rating? But yes, a nice moderate for the Bust area. Jun 11, 2010
If you want to avoid the difficult opening moves on this pitch, start on The Brown Palace and join this route half way up. It makes for a nice 5.7 or 5.8 lead. Jul 31, 2009
Scott Matz
Loveland, CO
Scott Matz   Loveland, CO
This climb is worth checkin' out. Not a big fan of the Bust, but Deceiver is a great 5.9. Aug 19, 2008