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Routes in Mary's Bust - main buttress

Broadmoor, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brown Palace, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Convolution S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Deceiver S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Disneyland T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dynamite S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Fool Me Twice T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Frisky Lady S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Just in Time S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lie Detector S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mary's Jugs S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mary's Tricks S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Maternal Damnation S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moon Shadow S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
New Direction T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Open Road, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Out Of Time S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Proud Mary S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stuck In Time S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
There's Something About Mary T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Violet Blue S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wingardium Leviosa T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Snively, Hill, Gillett, Wright, Zimmerman
Page Views: 1,274 total, 9/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Jul 17, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

SIT climbed as a much better route than one might have imagined from reading the BG guide to Estes Park Valley. A single bolt above the belay at the top of P1 beckoned, and a second pitch was added to SIT in the Spring of 2006. Presently P1 goes at 5.9 as described by BG. P2 comes in as very continuous 5.11. Both remind me of Jug Dome and climb on the same kind of BTC granite. P2 has very thin hands and thin footwork. The rock looks as though it should be friable, but it climbs as very solid stone. The jugs on P1, if anything, just seemed a bit rough - sometimes tough for the hands but great for the feet. P1, 85 feet, 5.9. P2, 90 feet, 5.11.

Location

SIT starts behind the left margin of a large flake growing beside the trail. Find a rough, left-facing, corner system with a bolt 8 feet up.

Protection

A dozen draws will get both pitches. A 60 meter rope is required for P2.

Photos

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S. Neoh  
My partner and I, both around 5'6", only did P1 today. We both rated P1 5.10, mostly due to some long moves. We said 5.9 is the average grade of P1; 5.10 the first 1/3 and then 5.8 for the rest! :) Aug 28, 2017
Jay Eggleston
Denver
 
Jay Eggleston   Denver
 
The first pitch is fun and probably feels difficult if you are short. There is a long reach above the 2nd bolt. Aug 14, 2016
IMHO, pitch 1 is one of the better 9s on the crag. Dec 6, 2015
percious
Bear Creek, CO
  5.11d
percious   Bear Creek, CO
  5.11d
I broke one of the key mica holds around the 5th bolt on P2. It might be a little harder now. Sep 3, 2012
timoteo  
I was hoping you would shed some historical light on this, Bernard- thanks. I will indeed return the bit to the Snive, and I'll have to ask him if he was planning on placing a 5" bolt? I know MB had a reputation for chossy rock for a LONG time, but come on.... Anyway- have fun out there. Sep 6, 2009
Guess we better rename the route: "No Longer Stuck In Time" (!). The stuck bit gave rise to the name of the route back in 1995: Douglas' drill ran out of juice just as the hole was nearing completion, and he couldn't back the bit out (as I recall, it was already binding in the hole a little due to a worn bit, and then it wouldn't come back out as the battery died). I think he may have returned at a later date with a recharged drill in an attempt to remove it, but the bit would not budge.

Tim, you should go over to Snively's house and show up with his 14 year old bit just for kicks. Nice job getting it out. Say hi to Douglas from me. Or, hand the bit off to me, and I'll pay the master a visit (Douglas very kindly took me under his wings when I was a youngster, and coached me through many a good climb -- I've got nothing but fond memories of those carefree days...). Sep 5, 2009
timoteo  
Took a vise-grips and crow-bar to the drill-bit that was sticking out 2" from an old anchor bolt-hole at the top of P1 today, and it reluctantly came out. It was a 3/8" Hilti bit, buried 4 and 3/4" deep! No wonder that hazardous eyesore was still there. Tried to pry out the other old anchor bolt/nut, but no go so pounded it in flush (minus the nut). There is still one old rusty bolt with hanger in the vicinity, could not turn the bolt head at all so left it there. If anyone with some epoxy wants to finish off the clean-up, cool. There was another empty hole there too, maybe 1/2" diameter. Happy climbing on Mary's Bust! Sep 5, 2009
Scott Matz
Loveland, CO
Scott Matz   Loveland, CO
Was wondering about the route just left of this, goes for 10 or so bolts over a couple little bulges, it seemed 5.11 to me. Anybody know? Aug 5, 2009