Type: Sport, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches
FA: Ken Duncan
Page Views: 374 total · 13/month
Shared By: Ken Duncan on Mar 19, 2022
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

Crusty, Old Curmudgeon has fun and challenging climbing with some funky rock on the first pitch followed by very continuous climbing on good MB type rock on P2.  Three stars if not for the rock on P1  

P1. 5.11a. Face climb past a low tricky section to a big ledge. Traverse right around the mica bulge, then climb it to the overhang, placing an alpine draw on the bolt under the overhang. Crank the overhang with the crux at the final bolt to reach a hanging belay at 90 feet.

P2. 5.12a. Keep the belay to the left to avoid being in the leader's fall line as they climb through the crux. The first 20 feet curving up right then back left to the water groove are the crux consisting of thin hand holds and smeary feet. Continue up the water groove on very continuous 5.10 climbing to the anchors, 90 feet.

Location Suggest change

This is the bolt line climbing the face up to overhanging flakes 40 feet right of where the approach trail hits the cliff. It is right of a big, right-facing dihedral. See the photo.

Protection Suggest change

13 bolts on each pitch. Include an alpine draw and a couple long draws.