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Routes in Mary's Bust - main buttress

Broadmoor, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brown Palace, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Convolution S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Deceiver S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Disneyland T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dynamite S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Fool Me Twice T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Frisky Lady S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Just in Time S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lie Detector S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mary's Jugs S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mary's Tricks S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Maternal Damnation S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moon Shadow S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
New Direction T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Open Road, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Out Of Time S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Proud Mary S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stuck In Time S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
There's Something About Mary T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Violet Blue S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wingardium Leviosa T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 170 ft, 2 pitches
FA: R.M. Wright, ShiAnn Zimmerman
Page Views: 1,177 total, 9/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Jul 24, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Convolution climbs the first pitch of OOT, and at the top of P1 traverses left to a broad ledge with a double bolt anchor and chains. Getting off OOT and to the belay has one additional tough sequence immediately left of the P1 chains - and several more clips. P2 ascends the deep water groove on the left and finishes at a double bolt stance that is 40 feet below the top of P2 on OOT. In other words, it will not get you to the top of OOT.

The climbing on P2 is convoluted. It climbs more like a chimney than anything else, and it felt very strenuous despite its diminutive 60 foot length. The hands are bad and the feet worse. I found myself trying to push, squirm, and wiggle to an obvious slot half way through. But just getting started was a convoluted mix of pushes, scum, and cryptic friction. The start is likely the crux. Forget contact strength and forget looking for any crispy edges to bear down on. What you see is what you get, a polished tube. P2 was brushed where it seemed prudent, and certainly anything critical is clean enough, but a brush may be useful if you suss out a different sequence than my own. Gym rats will hate it.

Location

Convolution is on the right side of Mary's Bust where MJ and OOT begin.

Protection

Fifteen draws and a 60 meter rope will get both P1 and P2. Double bolts and chains at the top of both pitches.

Photos

Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.11
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.11
The bolts in the tube are close together, but the crack only has maybe 2 good hand jams its entire length. Your left foot stays in the crack, and your right foot uses teeny face holds. A good pitch. Getting into tube does seem like the crux. Aug 14, 2016
climber76
Loveland/Vail, CO
climber76   Loveland/Vail, CO
Step up and left to some good crystals, then do a desperate tips layback to enter the base of the tube, then a flaring handstack will get you started up the tube. Lots of fun. Closely bolted - always on TR. Jul 9, 2014