Avg: 2.7 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 105 ft (32 m)|
|Page Views:||1,634 total · 12/month|
|Shared By:||Guy H. on Aug 16, 2010|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Start up towards the obvious, thin crack system behind the large pin tree. Stem, palm, and thin crack moves (crux) lead to a jam crack. A finger size cam and a #2 protect this section. Head left on slab climbing to another 5.10 crux at a bulge. A #1 can protect the runout between bolts. There is a 20 foot runout to the anchors that can be protected by a difficult to see TCU placement.
You can just barely lower off with a 60m, so be careful. A 70m might be a good idea.