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Routes in Mary's Bust - main buttress

Broadmoor, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brown Palace, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Convolution S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Deceiver S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Disneyland T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dynamite S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Fool Me Twice T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Frisky Lady S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Just in Time S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Lie Detector S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mary's Jugs S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mary's Tricks S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Maternal Damnation S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moon Shadow S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
New Direction T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Open Road, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Out Of Time S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Proud Mary S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stuck In Time S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
There's Something About Mary T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Violet Blue S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wingardium Leviosa T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, Sport, 105 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,102 total · 11/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Aug 16, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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This varied route is one of the better pitches at The Bust. A light rack is required for the runouts between the bolted sections.

Start up towards the obvious, thin crack system behind the large pin tree. Stem, palm, and thin crack moves (crux) lead to a jam crack. A finger size cam and a #2 protect this section. Head left on slab climbing to another 5.10 crux at a bulge. A #1 can protect the runout between bolts. There is a 20 foot runout to the anchors that can be protected by a difficult to see TCU placement.

You can just barely lower off with a 60m, so be careful. A 70m might be a good idea.


This is the rightmost route on the main buttress. There is a new ~5.12 to the left, and this route starts behind a large pine tree.


7-8 bolts, set of Aliens or small cams, #1/#2 Camalots.


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Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
It is possible to rap down to the anchors on the adjacent new ~5.12 route for a quick TR. On TR, I thought the bolt placements were in poor positions for leading. Some of them didn't protect the hard moves well or were painfully out of reach from good stances. Aug 16, 2010
Loveland/Vail, CO
climber76   Loveland/Vail, CO
The difficult to see TCU placement noted above is a green Black Diamond C3. It was in the vertical seam when my feet were about 8 feet above the last bolt. It is past the harder stuff, but a fall above would be severe. Aug 19, 2011

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