Type: Trad, Sport, 105 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,254 total · 11/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Aug 16, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This varied route is one of the better pitches at The Bust. A light rack is required for the runouts between the bolted sections.

Start up towards the obvious, thin crack system behind the large pin tree. Stem, palm, and thin crack moves (crux) lead to a jam crack. A finger size cam and a #2 protect this section. Head left on slab climbing to another 5.10 crux at a bulge. A #1 can protect the runout between bolts. There is a 20 foot runout to the anchors that can be protected by a difficult to see TCU placement.

You can just barely lower off with a 60m, so be careful. A 70m might be a good idea.

Location

This is the rightmost route on the main buttress. There is a new ~5.12 to the left, and this route starts behind a large pine tree.

Protection

7-8 bolts, set of Aliens or small cams, #1/#2 Camalots.

Photos

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