Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Unknown (help)
Page Views: 1,123 total · 10/month
Shared By: Scott Matz on Aug 5, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

8 Opinions

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A nice looking route just left of S.I.T. and The Flake, it starts easy and picks up fast. There are a couple of cruxes one is down between the 3rd and 4th bolt, the other is up a couple bolts where the route turns vertical (almost overhanging) most bolts have great stances for clipping. You'll also find good places to catch a rest if you're looking. A lot of good feet.


This is the 2nd route left of The Flake, next to Stuck In Time. Just take a look at Bernard's topo map.


10-12 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor, 1st bolt is up about 10 feet.


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Scott Matz
Loveland, CO
Scott Matz   Loveland, CO
After trying Brown Palace, we got on this route, definitely pushing my leading skills. It looks like this route could lead to a couple of more pitches, what do you think about that (B.G.)? This is a great route (in the running). Aug 5, 2009
I think it's probable at least one more pitch could be added. Whoever put in the initial work on this route (in the early 1990s, I think) apparently intended to continue up the wall as there is one bolt visible from the belay up and left about 15 feet. I'll put it on my check-it-out list (though I may not get to it for a while as I've got designs on some other big routes first, and my summer is coming to an end). Aug 5, 2009
Scott Matz
Loveland, CO
Scott Matz   Loveland, CO
Yeah, I did see that it has an old rusty color sling on it. There's a nice chimney system with good holds. Have a good time. Aug 6, 2009
Funny, I just noticed this route today, there was an Italian family on it- Dad (broken ankle 2 months ago) led it, and 16 year-old daughter hiked it on toprope. He said 11c. Thanks for posting this!
Bernard-I like the name Disneyland! Good luck with the upper pitches. And your latest new pitch on Devils Backbone sounds good- will try it when I become younger, stronger, and more talented. We did the 1st 3 of Brown Palace today, the 2nd pitch is excellent, 3rd spit me off. This is becoming quite the crag! Aug 9, 2009
A couple of days ago I broke a really good right hand sidepull that I had used to clip (perhaps the 7th bolt? Not exactly sure). Fortunately, the hold did not fully pull out, and so I saved the OS; however, it was moving so much, and so clearly a tempting hold to clip from, that I checked it on the lower, and it popped out with a fairly gentle wiggle. Ran the route again and while the missing hold does make that clip substantially more taxing, I don't think it really changes the grade. There are a few dodgy bolts on this route. I would replace them, but I'm just visiting and do not have the gear. Jul 23, 2015