Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Unknown (help)
Page Views: 1,123 total · 10/month
Shared By: Scott Matz on Aug 5, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

A nice looking route just left of S.I.T. and The Flake, it starts easy and picks up fast. There are a couple of cruxes one is down between the 3rd and 4th bolt, the other is up a couple bolts where the route turns vertical (almost overhanging) most bolts have great stances for clipping. You'll also find good places to catch a rest if you're looking. A lot of good feet.

Location

This is the 2nd route left of The Flake, next to Stuck In Time. Just take a look at Bernard's topo map.

Protection

10-12 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor, 1st bolt is up about 10 feet.

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Scott Matz
Loveland, CO
  5.11b/c
Scott Matz   Loveland, CO
  5.11b/c
After trying Brown Palace, we got on this route, definitely pushing my leading skills. It looks like this route could lead to a couple of more pitches, what do you think about that (B.G.)? This is a great route (in the running). Aug 5, 2009
I think it's probable at least one more pitch could be added. Whoever put in the initial work on this route (in the early 1990s, I think) apparently intended to continue up the wall as there is one bolt visible from the belay up and left about 15 feet. I'll put it on my check-it-out list (though I may not get to it for a while as I've got designs on some other big routes first, and my summer is coming to an end). Aug 5, 2009
Scott Matz
Loveland, CO
  5.11b/c
Scott Matz   Loveland, CO
  5.11b/c
Yeah, I did see that it has an old rusty color sling on it. There's a nice chimney system with good holds. Have a good time. Aug 6, 2009
timoteo  
Funny, I just noticed this route today, there was an Italian family on it- Dad (broken ankle 2 months ago) led it, and 16 year-old daughter hiked it on toprope. He said 11c. Thanks for posting this!
Bernard-I like the name Disneyland! Good luck with the upper pitches. And your latest new pitch on Devils Backbone sounds good- will try it when I become younger, stronger, and more talented. We did the 1st 3 of Brown Palace today, the 2nd pitch is excellent, 3rd spit me off. This is becoming quite the crag! Aug 9, 2009
A couple of days ago I broke a really good right hand sidepull that I had used to clip (perhaps the 7th bolt? Not exactly sure). Fortunately, the hold did not fully pull out, and so I saved the OS; however, it was moving so much, and so clearly a tempting hold to clip from, that I checked it on the lower, and it popped out with a fairly gentle wiggle. Ran the route again and while the missing hold does make that clip substantially more taxing, I don't think it really changes the grade. There are a few dodgy bolts on this route. I would replace them, but I'm just visiting and do not have the gear. Jul 23, 2015