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Routes in Mary's Bust - main buttress

Broadmoor, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brown Palace, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Convolution S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Deceiver S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Disneyland T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dynamite S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Fool Me Twice T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Frisky Lady S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Just in Time S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lie Detector S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mary's Jugs S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mary's Tricks S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Maternal Damnation S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moon Shadow S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
New Direction T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Open Road, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Out Of Time S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Proud Mary S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stuck In Time S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
There's Something About Mary T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Violet Blue S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wingardium Leviosa T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 115 ft, 2 pitches
FA: K. Duncan, D. Humphrey, 2017. P1 TR'd by Bernard Gillett, 2009
Page Views: 136 total, 23/month
Shared By: Ken Duncan on May 28, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This was put up the first weekend after the canyon reopened following a long winter closure. The first pitch makes for a nice warm-up, or combine both pitches for an 18 bolt mega pitch. The rock is a little flaky at this time but should clean up with use.

P1. 5.9+: start on the right side of the "crystal cave", and follow bolts up and left then straight up to a ledge with chain anchors.

P2. 5.11: easy climbing for a couple bolts is followed by thin, techy climbing before moving back left to join Maternal Damnation for the last four bolts. The line of least resistance stays right of the bolt line through the crux.

From the top of P2, a 70m will just get you to the ledge at the base. Be sure to knot the ends.

Location

Start at the right side of the "crystal cave" (the old mine).

Protection

8 bolts for P1, 9 bolts for P2, or 18 bolts for a mega pitch. Bring some long slings if doing it as a single pitch.

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