Avg: 2.5 from 4 votes
|Type:||Sport, 115 ft (35 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||K. Duncan, D. Humphrey, 2017. P1 TR'd by Bernard Gillett, 2009|
|Page Views:||611 total · 12/month|
|Shared By:||Ken Duncan on May 28, 2017|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
P1. 5.9+: start on the right side of the "crystal cave", and follow bolts up and left then straight up to a ledge with chain anchors.
P2. 5.11c/d: easy climbing for a couple bolts is followed by thin, techy climbing before moving back left to join Maternal Damnation for the last four bolts. The line of least resistance stays right of the bolt line through the crux.
From the top of P2, a 70m will just get you to the ledge at the base. Be sure to knot the ends.