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Colorado
> Estes Park Valley
> Big Thompson Ca…
> Mary's Bust Area
> Mary's Bust - main bu…
The Open Road
5.11c/d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 2.7 from 9
votes
Routes in Mary's Bust - main buttress
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Broadmoor, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Brown Palace, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Convolution S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Crusty, Old Curmudgeon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Deceiver S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dirty Mary S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Disneyland T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Dynamite S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R |
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Expeliarmus S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Frisky Lady S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Just in Time S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mary's Jugs S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mary's Tricks S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Maternal Damnation S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Moon Shadow S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Motel 6 S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Open Road, The S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Out Of Time S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Proud Mary S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Stuck In Time S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Violet Blue S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Wingardium Leviosa T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 115 ft (35 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 40.41571, -105.37543 |
| FA: | K. Duncan, D. Humphrey, 2017. P1 TR'd by Bernard Gillett, 2009 |
| Page Views: | 1,076 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Ken Duncan on May 28, 2017 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023
Details
Update: per Bruce Hildenbrand: the area has been open since 2023.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
This was put up the first weekend after the canyon reopened following a long winter closure for flood repairs. The first pitch makes for a nice warm-up, or combine both pitches for an 18 bolt mega pitch. The rock is a little flaky at this time but should clean up with use.
P1. 5.9+: start on the right side of the "crystal cave", and follow bolts up and left then straight up to a ledge with chain anchors.
P2. 5.11c/d: easy climbing for a couple bolts is followed by thin, techy climbing before moving back left to join Maternal Damnation for the last four bolts. The line of least resistance stays on the right side of the bolt line through the crux.
From the top of P2, a 70m will just get you to the ledge at the base. Be sure to knot the ends.
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