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Expeliarmus
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in Mary's Bust - main buttress
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Broadmoor, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Brown Palace, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Convolution S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Crusty, Old Curmudgeon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Deceiver S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dirty Mary S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Disneyland T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Dynamite S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R |
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Expeliarmus S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Frisky Lady S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Just in Time S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mary's Jugs S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mary's Tricks S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Maternal Damnation S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Moon Shadow S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Motel 6 S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Open Road, The S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Out Of Time S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Proud Mary S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Stuck In Time S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Violet Blue S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Wingardium Leviosa T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
| Type: | Sport, 135 ft (41 m) |
| GPS: | 40.41571, -105.37543 |
| FA: | Mike Caldwell |
| Page Views: | 824 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Ken Duncan on Mar 28, 2019 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023
Details
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
This is a very sustained techy face. There are no 5.12 moves, but there are not many under 5.11 either. It is probably only .11+ but very continuous. It has good movement on okay rock that should clean up with more traffic. We had an 80m rope, and I reached the anchors at the halfway mark, but the route angles quite a bit, and the ground rises to the right, so you should be able to get down with a 70m. Your belayer may need to scramble up to the ledge below the first bolt though. Be sure to knot the ends!
Scramble up to the ledge below the first bulge, and clip a bolt. Pull the bulge, then angle up and right then back left to another ledge. Clip a bolt, pull another bulge, and diagonal right under a third bulge to the base of a water groove. Head up the groove to a stance on a pedestal, take a well deserved rest, then make the final crux moves up and right to a bolt, and head up to the anchors.
Location
Scramble up to a ledge on the right side of the buttress half way between Out of Time and Wingardium Leviosa.
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