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Routes in Mary's Bust - main buttress

Broadmoor, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brown Palace, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Convolution S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Deceiver S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Disneyland T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dynamite S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Fool Me Twice T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Frisky Lady S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Just in Time S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lie Detector S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mary's Jugs S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mary's Tricks S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Maternal Damnation S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moon Shadow S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
New Direction T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Open Road, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Out Of Time S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Proud Mary S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stuck In Time S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
There's Something About Mary T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Violet Blue S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wingardium Leviosa T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: not sure
Page Views: 1,580 total, 16/month
Shared By: timoteo on Aug 1, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is an older route described in B. Gillett's "Rocky Mountain National Park" guidebook (2001). The physical crux is surmounting the initial overhanging, quartz ledges, but the mental one is a bit higher with at least 1 significant run-out, on 5.8 or .9 face climbing. This would be a nasty fall, hence the "R" rating.

Location

The route is located about 20' left of "Maternal Damnation", at a significant section of creamy-pink quartz. A 60-meter rope will easily get you down.

Protection

The route has 8 protection bolts, and a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

Ross Swanson
Pinewood Springs
 
Ross Swanson   Pinewood Springs
 
I've swapped pitches on Birds of Fire, and I thought the runout on Dynamite was scary, especially the clip. For me, this rock took some getting use to, it's like the friction you get at Eldo.

We continued to the top on Broadmoor. If you are considering doing that, I'd suggest linking Dynamite with the next pitch of Broadmoor, then you can skip the hanging belay. A 70m will make it. The crux on P6 sneaks up on you. Sep 25, 2016
aikibujin
Castle Rock, CO
  5.10b R
aikibujin   Castle Rock, CO
  5.10b R
For the people who say this route has no runout, you're such a stud! I'm also going to add another vote to say there is one bolt that is uncharacteristically runout, compare to the rest of the bolting. The moves getting there is not easy either, and you'll probably hit the blunt arete in line with the last bolt if you peel before clipping the next bolt. Definitely some injury potential there. Apr 8, 2016
Ken Duncan
Ft Collins, CO
  5.10a/b PG13
Ken Duncan   Ft Collins, CO
  5.10a/b PG13
Linking this and the first pitch of the Broadmoor makes for a great long pitch with not too bad rope drag as long as you place a few long slings. Aug 30, 2015
Top Rope Hero
Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.10-
Top Rope Hero   Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.10-
Unless this thing has recently been retro-bolted, then I couldn't for the life of me (literally) find anything remotely "runout" about this line. Anywhere.

Get. A. Sack. Then rope up for Birds of Fire and THEN talk to me about runouts.... Aug 18, 2011
Nathan Welton
Estes Park, CO
  5.10b R
Nathan Welton   Estes Park, CO
  5.10b R
The runout seems out of place, both for the route and for the crag. Not super hard climbing, but pretty dangerous fall potential, particularly considering that you're climbing on crystals that keep breaking off. Fun route nevertheless. I'd like to see another bolt in there for safety's sake. May 30, 2011
Brian Stefanovic
Fort Collins, CO
Brian Stefanovic   Fort Collins, CO
I'm just wondering why there isn't a bolt in that run out section. There is plenty of room for it. It feels as though the closer you get to the next bolt, the harder it gets. Of course, that could just be my nerves. I backed off and also down-climbed about 15ft. Jun 30, 2010
timoteo
 
timoteo  
 
I guess you can debate what is "hard" or "easy", depending on your strengths/weaknesses, but what you will need to finish this route is very steady nerves. By no means a "Bachar-Yerian", but injurious fall potential exists here! Aug 10, 2009
Scott Matz
Loveland, CO
Scott Matz   Loveland, CO
The first part is easy and not the crux. The crux is hard 9 or maybe 10a on runout face. Eric backed out. I went up to save the gear and ended up down climbing 15 feet of 10a. I thought the route was bolted on lead. Aug 5, 2009