Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Wright & Tarrant, Fall 2008, FFA Mark Tarrant
Page Views: 1,280 total · 10/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Jun 4, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Start Frisky Lady right of Stuck In Time and behind the tree. FL has three distinct cruxes. The first comes at bolt three where an open hand gains the clip, 5.11b/c. This used to be from a very nice crimp which has subsequently fallen off. The crux of the climb comes in gaining the large flake at 50ft. Originally this was picked up fairly easily from a good edge just below the flake. This too has broken off since the route was first bolted and run on jugs. Mark solved this with a burly and hard to reach push off the right side. If you are much less than 6ft tall this will seem nearly impossible, 5.12. The final crux comes in the ultra thin slab above. Nothing has changed here from the original. The slab is tricky, balancy, and elegant. The solution traverses low before entering the thiner moves above. Super well protected here, 5.11c. Kudos to Mark for finding a way through the second crux.

Location

This lies behind the tree and left of SIT and the large flake at the base.

Protection

Quickdraws and 60meter rope. Double bolt anchor at the top.

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