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Routes in Mary's Bust - main buttress

Broadmoor, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brown Palace, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Convolution S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Deceiver S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Disneyland T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dynamite S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Fool Me Twice T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Frisky Lady S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Just in Time S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lie Detector S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mary's Jugs S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mary's Tricks S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Maternal Damnation S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moon Shadow S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
New Direction T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Open Road, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Out Of Time S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Proud Mary S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stuck In Time S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
There's Something About Mary T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Violet Blue S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wingardium Leviosa T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Wright & Tarrant, Fall 2008, FFA Mark Tarrant
Page Views: 1,159 total, 11/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Jun 4, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Start Frisky Lady right of Stuck In Time and behind the tree. FL has three distinct cruxes. The first comes at bolt three where an open hand gains the clip, 5.11b/c. This used to be from a very nice crimp which has subsequently fallen off. The crux of the climb comes in gaining the large flake at 50ft. Originally this was picked up fairly easily from a good edge just below the flake. This too has broken off since the route was first bolted and run on jugs. Mark solved this with a burly and hard to reach push off the right side. If you are much less than 6ft tall this will seem nearly impossible, 5.12. The final crux comes in the ultra thin slab above. Nothing has changed here from the original. The slab is tricky, balancy, and elegant. The solution traverses low before entering the thiner moves above. Super well protected here, 5.11c. Kudos to Mark for finding a way through the second crux.

Location

This lies behind the tree and left of SIT and the large flake at the base.

Protection

Quickdraws and 60meter rope. Double bolt anchor at the top.

Photos

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Fun movement on this route. I'm only 5'9", so this definitely goes for those under 6 feet. In fact, I didn't even think reaching the flake around 50' was the crux of the route (it was "a" crux but not the hardest bit). No, the rock is not perfect, especially compared to other areas around Estes; but this place is close, easy access, and fun for a really quick hit. Thanks to the developers. Jul 23, 2015
John Dubya  
 
This route is a chossfest. I felt like there were broken holds at all 3 cruxes, and as a matter of fact, I broke off at least a half dozen. Not sure why the route was extended through the blank slab on terrible quality rock (the last 3 bolts)? Also not sure what to rate this thing besides very hard given the conditions of the rock. On a positive note, it's well bolted, so all my leader falls were super mellow. Aug 12, 2012
Nathan Welton
Estes Park, CO
  5.12a
Nathan Welton   Estes Park, CO
  5.12a
Route condition seems pretty solid as of late May, 2011. Great climb. Harder for shorter climbers, but I watched my 5'9" wife hike the hard move in a few tries. It can be done, don't fret. May 30, 2011
Elijah Flenner
  5.12b
Elijah Flenner  
  5.12b
The rock is a little friable in places, but the movement is great. The moves to the flake are hard to read. If a crucial foot hold or crimp breaks, this route will become much more difficult. The upper slab is very thin and hard. In my opinion, much harder than the lower section, but it was in direct sunlight. May 23, 2011