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Routes in Mary's Bust - main buttress

Broadmoor, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brown Palace, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Convolution S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Deceiver S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Disneyland T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dynamite S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Fool Me Twice T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Frisky Lady S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Just in Time S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lie Detector S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mary's Jugs S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mary's Tricks S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Maternal Damnation S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moon Shadow S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
New Direction T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Open Road, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Out Of Time S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Proud Mary S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stuck In Time S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
There's Something About Mary T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Violet Blue S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wingardium Leviosa T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: R.M. Wright, ShiAnn Zimmerman
Page Views: 1,491 total, 11/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Jul 17, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

OOT begins on easy terrain that gets harder and harder the higher you climb. P1 ticks in at 5.10 with a thin crux at 70 feet. It ends at double chains and is a good pitch by itself.

P1 has lots of good places to rest.

P2 is at least solid at 5.11 with two distinct cruxes and continuous burly moves for 40 feet getting off the belay. A tough mantle out of a shallow pod nets a good stance to launch the finish - which is much thinner and more devious than it looks.

Noto bene: P1 has two places where one can exit to the left. The lower of these puts you directly over the hard route behind the flake and avoids the crux of P1. The upper of these gains a belay stance for the route running up the deep water groove. The two pitches of OOT are largely vectorial, straight up. However, one can link P1 to the groove pitch for a very different style of climbing.

Location

This is 50 feet right of the flake growing out of the trail. Locate chains at 90 feet. The route is right of MJ and looks very easy in the start.

Protection

Fifteen draws will get P2, 12 for P1. If you are climbing through P1 to the chains, a sling just below the crux will prevent rope drag. A 60 meter rope is required for descent from both pitches. The top of P2 is a tad less than 200 feet off the deck. On the ground, pull the rope to the left to avoid the tree.

Photos

Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.11
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.11
The second pitch was fun, not horrible. The mantel move is tricky and some of the other moves are thin, but it is enjoyable. Aug 14, 2016
Nathan Welton
Estes Park, CO
  5.11b
Nathan Welton   Estes Park, CO
  5.11b
I thought this was great fun. The first pitch was pretty basic, but the second pitch was continuous and technical. I figure 5.9 or 5.10a for the first pitch and 5.11b for the second. Not sure what was so horrible about the second pitch... ??? May 14, 2013
Top Rope Hero
Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.10d
Top Rope Hero   Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.10d
Fair warning: The Mountain Shop topo lists the second pitch as "10c." Maybe it's an 11--but maybe/probably it'd go at 10d with superior beta for the thin, desperate, sequencey crux (of which I have none beyond "go left-ish", since I thrutched through it). Certainly not c.

That said, Out of Time? Out of someone's mind. The first pitch is fine, I suppose. A bucket of 5.7 happyland to an awkward, one-move wonder 5.10 bulge.

The second pitch is pure crystalline nightmare ugliness. As though SOMEbody lost a bet and had to go drill up yet another shit show... Jul 12, 2011
The description is good. Easy climbing that gradually gets more difficult culminating at the crux. Another fun route. Sep 8, 2009