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Routes in Mary's Bust - main buttress

Broadmoor, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brown Palace, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Convolution S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Deceiver S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Disneyland T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dynamite S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Fool Me Twice T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Frisky Lady S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Just in Time S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lie Detector S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mary's Jugs S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mary's Tricks S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Maternal Damnation S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moon Shadow S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
New Direction T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Open Road, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Out Of Time S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Proud Mary S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stuck In Time S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
There's Something About Mary T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Violet Blue S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wingardium Leviosa T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 170 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bernard Gillett, Tim Hansen, and Jane Ruth, 2009. Pitch 2: Gillett and Paul Bodnar, 2010
Page Views: 1,871 total · 18/month
Shared By: Bernard Gillett on Aug 2, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

In 1961, Jim Disney climbed a route that came to be known as "Direct," 5.6 A4 (from Fricke's 1970s guide); it involved a "black, evil chimney," though that was nearly the extent of the description. Direct begins near the center of the wall (about 40 feet left of where the approach trail meets the cliff), and nails up into a deep, dark slot (the evil chimney) about 130 feet off the ground, and perhaps 30 feet right of the second pitch of Maternal Damnation. Disneyland climbs the arete immediately left of Direct, and then crosses over it on its second pitch.

P1. Boulder up to a ledge beneath the big white scar a little left of center (site of an old mine), and walk right on the ledge to a belay stance (flake out your rope here). Climb into a steep groove peppered with quartz crystals, and work along the left side of an arete past 7 bolts (5.10c) to a good stance on the arete (chains).

P2. Continue along the left edge of the chimney (4 bolts and a cam in an overlap, 5.10c), and then cross over its top into the crack system emanating from it. Step right after 15-20 feet (double sling at a horizontal crack for protection) and work up a steepening wall (4 bolts, 5.10) to a good stance with chains. The easy finish can be protected with a cam if desired.

Rappel the route to descend (95 feet, 80 feet). As shown in the topo, I've top roped an additional 200 feet above the current high point of the route. The first half of this is easy; the 2nd half pulls through a 5.10- overhang and then follows a right-leaning 5.8/5.9 half-pipe (bordered on the left by an attractive dike). At present, I'm of the opinion that it may not be worth adding more bolts to protect this stretch (it would be X-rated on gear as there is very little opportunity for protection).

Location

Start on the right side of the ledge (gained via an easy, short boulder problem) that sits at the base of the mine hole near the center of the crag, and 15 feet below and right of the start to Maternal Damnation. See topo below.

Protection

Bring 9 QDs for the first pitch. The second requires some cams and a double-length runner. I placed a #0.5, #1 and #2 Camalot.

Photos

Top Rope Hero
Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.10c
Top Rope Hero   Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.10c
The second pitch is NOT yet noted on the local's topo for MB. I'll work on that with the Mountain Shop.

First pitch goes at a tricky, delicate 10b; the second probably goes at 10c.

Second pitch [SPOILER ALERT] is yer basic awesome-shit-awesome sandwich. Great moves off the belay to crossing up ‘n’ over 30-ish feet of wonky, 5.6 crack choss (easy enough to just run that out if’n you’re already confident at leading 10c sport) to and through a beautiful but possibly height-dependent bulge with jugtastic holds on top. Jul 12, 2011