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Disneyland
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.4 from 15
votes
Routes in Mary's Bust - main buttress
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Broadmoor, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Brown Palace, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Convolution S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Crusty, Old Curmudgeon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Deceiver S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dirty Mary S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Disneyland T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Dynamite S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R |
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Expeliarmus S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Frisky Lady S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Just in Time S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mary's Jugs S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mary's Tricks S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Maternal Damnation S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Moon Shadow S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Motel 6 S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Open Road, The S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Out Of Time S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Proud Mary S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Stuck In Time S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Violet Blue S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Wingardium Leviosa T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
| Type: | Trad, Sport, 170 ft (52 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 40.41571, -105.37543 |
| FA: | Bernard Gillett, Tim Hansen, and Jane Ruth, 2009. Pitch 2: Gillett and Paul Bodnar, 2010 |
| Page Views: | 2,890 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned User on Aug 2, 2009 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023
Details
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
In 1961, Jim Disney climbed a route that came to be known as "Direct," 5.6 A4 (from Fricke's 1970s guidebook). Direct's limited write-up said it ascended a "black, evil chimney" near the center of the wall (about 40' left of where the approach to the cliff). It goes up into a deep, dark slot about 130 feet up, and perhaps 30 feet right of P2 of Maternal Damnation. Disneyland ascends the arete left of Direct and then crosses over it on P2.
P1. Go up to a ledge beneath the white scar a little left of center (an old mine), and move right to belay. Climb into a steep groove with quartz crystals, and climb along the left side of an arete past 7 bolts (10) to a stance (bolted anchor with chains).
P2. Climb the left edge of the chimney (4 bolts and a cam in an overlap, 10), and then cross over its top into the crack system. Move right after 15-20 feet (long sling), and continue up a steep wall (4 bolts and possible cam, 10) to a belay with chains.
Rappel twice (95 feet, 80 feet).
B. Gillett has toproped (X) 200 feet above the current high point of the route. The second half goes over a 10- overhang and then follows a right-leaning 5.8/5.9 half-pipe (bordered on the left by an attractive dike).
Location
Scramble up to a ledge at the base of the mine hole near the center of the crag and 15 feet below and right of the start to Maternal Damnation.
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