Type: Trad, Sport, 170 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bernard Gillett, Tim Hansen, and Jane Ruth, 2009. Pitch 2: Gillett and Paul Bodnar, 2010
Page Views: 2,090 total · 17/month
Shared By: Bernard Gillett on Aug 2, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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In 1961, Jim Disney climbed a route that came to be known as "Direct," 5.6 A4 (from Fricke's 1970s guide); it involved a "black, evil chimney," though that was nearly the extent of the description. Direct begins near the center of the wall (about 40 feet left of where the approach trail meets the cliff), and nails up into a deep, dark slot (the evil chimney) about 130 feet off the ground, and perhaps 30 feet right of the second pitch of Maternal Damnation. Disneyland climbs the arete immediately left of Direct, and then crosses over it on its second pitch.

P1. Boulder up to a ledge beneath the big white scar a little left of center (site of an old mine), and walk right on the ledge to a belay stance (flake out your rope here). Climb into a steep groove peppered with quartz crystals, and work along the left side of an arete past 7 bolts (5.10c) to a good stance on the arete (chains).

P2. Continue along the left edge of the chimney (4 bolts and a cam in an overlap, 5.10c), and then cross over its top into the crack system emanating from it. Step right after 15-20 feet (double sling at a horizontal crack for protection) and work up a steepening wall (4 bolts, 5.10) to a good stance with chains. The easy finish can be protected with a cam if desired.

Rappel the route to descend (95 feet, 80 feet). As shown in the topo, I've top roped an additional 200 feet above the current high point of the route. The first half of this is easy; the 2nd half pulls through a 5.10- overhang and then follows a right-leaning 5.8/5.9 half-pipe (bordered on the left by an attractive dike). At present, I'm of the opinion that it may not be worth adding more bolts to protect this stretch (it would be X-rated on gear as there is very little opportunity for protection).


Start on the right side of the ledge (gained via an easy, short boulder problem) that sits at the base of the mine hole near the center of the crag, and 15 feet below and right of the start to Maternal Damnation. See topo below.


Bring 9 QDs for the first pitch. The second requires some cams and a double-length runner. I placed a #0.5, #1 and #2 Camalot.