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Routes in Mary's Bust - main buttress

Broadmoor, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brown Palace, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Convolution S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Deceiver S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Disneyland T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dynamite S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Fool Me Twice T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Frisky Lady S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Just in Time S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lie Detector S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mary's Jugs S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mary's Tricks S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Maternal Damnation S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moon Shadow S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
New Direction T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Open Road, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Out Of Time S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Proud Mary S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stuck In Time S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
There's Something About Mary T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Violet Blue S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wingardium Leviosa T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Richard Wright, Mark Tarrant, May, 2008
Page Views: 2,159 total · 17/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on May 12, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Mary's Tricks begins on the improbable flake system on the west side of Mary's Bust. A tricky start gives way to moderate climbing on a system of well-featured plates. Nice moves on solid stone. The starting flakes look as though they should be friable but in fact are very solid. Crux is early.

Location

This is left and just uphill from the start to Proud Mary.

Protection

Eight draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.

Photos

Joel Larner
Fort Collins, CO
Joel Larner   Fort Collins, CO
This is a fantastic short route. Great moves at the crux come after the 2nd bolt then it backs off a good bit. Above the crux it's all big solid jugs, but don't be lulled as it is sustaining and can still pump you up finishing it out. Aug 29, 2008
John Dubya  
 
So far this is my favorite route at Mary's...probably because its overhanging with mostly good holds and solid rock, which is atypical for this area full of technical and sometimes crumbly slab. Do it! Jun 8, 2012
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.11a
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.11a
Wow, super nice route. Short crux, but fun all the way to the top. 10+/11- seems fine. Feb 14, 2015
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.11a
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.11a
This is a fun route, but I wish you could clip the third bolt before doing the crux. There is a great jug to clip from but you are a ways above the 2nd bolt when you latch it. The crux has small hands and feet. Aug 14, 2016
Mike Wilkinson
Lexington, KY
 
Mike Wilkinson   Lexington, KY
 
Great climb! Felt like the rock on this route was much better than the routes around to the right. Worth the hike up the hill. Jul 5, 2017

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