PRINT: Rock Climb Mary's Tricks, Estes Park Valley

Mary's Tricks

5.11a, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),

Avg: 2.8 from 56 votes
FA: Richard Wright, Mark Tarrant, May, 2008
Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Big Thompson Ca… > Mary's Bust Area > Mary's Bust - main bu…

Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023 Details

Update: per Bruce Hildenbrand: the area has been open since 2023.

Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.

Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.

I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.

Access Issue: Peregrine nesting on The Broadmoor! Details

Per Kurtz: there are nesting peregrine falcons on The Broadmoor. Please climb elsewhere!

Description

Mary's Tricks begins on the improbable flake system on the west side of Mary's Bust. A tricky start gives way to moderate climbing on a system of well-featured plates. Nice moves on solid stone. The starting flakes look as though they should be friable but in fact are very solid. Crux is early.

Location

This is left and just uphill from the start to Proud Mary.

Protection

Eight draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Megan, over and done.

Megan closing down.

Megan slipping by the crux.

Megan Lewis climbing into the shadows on a final lap through MT.

Brent getting through the crux on Mary's Tricks.

Beautiful day on Mary's.

Me at the crux section of M's T.

The start of Mary's Tricks.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Joel Larner
Fort Collins, CO

This is a fantastic short route. Great moves at the crux come after the 2nd bolt then it backs off a good bit. Above the crux it's all big solid jugs, but don't be lulled as it is sustaining and can still pump you up finishing it out. Aug 29, 2008

John Wit
Estes Park

So far this is my favorite route at Mary's...probably because its overhanging with mostly good holds and solid rock, which is atypical for this area full of technical and sometimes crumbly slab. Do it! Jun 8, 2012

J. Albers
Colorado

5.11a

Wow, super nice route. Short crux, but fun all the way to the top. 10+/11- seems fine. Feb 14, 2015

Jay Eggleston
Denver

5.11a

This is a fun route, but I wish you could clip the third bolt before doing the crux. There is a great jug to clip from but you are a ways above the 2nd bolt when you latch it. The crux has small hands and feet. Aug 14, 2016

Mike Wilkinson
Lexington, KY

Great climb! Felt like the rock on this route was much better than the routes around to the right. Worth the hike up the hill. Jul 5, 2017

garrett r
Denver, CO

Ripped off a textbook-size hold about 5 or 6 bolts up. Be careful. Grade unchanged. May 6, 2019

Timmy Kessel
Fort Collins, CO

Great climb! A short crux at 2nd to 3rd bolt leads to nice solid holds with a bit of a overhang. Great rock throughout except the very start. If you're looking for your first 5.11, this is a great one! Aug 31, 2020