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Routes in Mary's Bust - main buttress

Broadmoor, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brown Palace, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Convolution S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Deceiver S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Disneyland T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dynamite S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Fool Me Twice T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Frisky Lady S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Just in Time S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lie Detector S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mary's Jugs S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mary's Tricks S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Maternal Damnation S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moon Shadow S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
New Direction T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Open Road, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Out Of Time S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Proud Mary S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stuck In Time S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
There's Something About Mary T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Violet Blue S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wingardium Leviosa T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: RMWright, Summer, 2008
Page Views: 2,494 total, 22/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Sep 15, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

MD ascends the south face in two reasonably moderate pitches.

P1, 70 feet, 5.10, begins on the ledge above the abondoned marble quarry. Easy climbing to the 5th clip where things get lots smaller and hard to see. Beta: at the 5th clip cut right and then shift back left to a stance above the clip you just passed. The pitch stays tricky until the anchor. I found myself climbing a bit right of clips and then shifting back left a couple of times. Hand holds are hard to see, but every clip should feel stable.

P2, 50 feet, 5.10 has more of the same type of climbing but has been bolted a bit more closely. The first three clips are tricky with inobvious hands, but things ease off significantly after the 4th clip.

The name: anyone who climbs slabs will be damned, particularly by all those mothers who want their childern to grow up as normal and well adjusted human beings.

Location

This is on the South face, 20 feet right of Scott Sills' black hanger route and left of the large gash that forms the most obvious feature of the south face.

Protection

Ten draws and a 60 meter rope. It is possible to rap to the ground with a 70 meter rope. However, two raps will get you down easily with 60 meter rope.

Photos

Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.10
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.10
Cool position... but the rock quality isn't that great. Flaky weirdness. I'd rather climb at Lumpy. May 5, 2014
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.10b
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.10b
What kind of methed up, stingy, klept star hole would give this route a bomb rating?

Seriously though, I thought this was a super fun route. Good rock, nice movement, well bolted, and in a nice setting. What's not to like? I was going to give this route 3 stars, but in honor of Top Rope Hero's cries of torment, I am giving it 4 stars. May 1, 2013
Top Rope Hero
Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.10b
Top Rope Hero   Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.10b
What misguided, drunk, star whores are throwin' props at this cheese grader shit show?!? Avoid like the in-laws.... Jul 12, 2011
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
  5.10b
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
  5.10b
P1 felt quite a bit harder than the 10a pitches on Broadmoor, so maybe 10b? But it was my first time climbing at Mary's Bust, my first pitch of the day, and I was self belaying. It felt reasonable on TR, but I knew the moves by then. I should have read Bernard's beta about moving right at bolt 5. It took me some hang time to figure that out. May 9, 2010
There's a decent variation to the first pitch of this line that has been top roped. Climb to the first set of chains on Maternal Damnation to set up the TR. Start in the mine hole that sits below and right of the normal start, and maneuver out the obvious overhangs on huge jugs (5.7); begin right of the shot holes. The rock is of better quality than one might imagine (though it has been subjected to dynamite blasting, so be cautious). Continue more-or-less straight up a line of crystals that dies out as you advance up the wall (5.9+). Stay right near the top, and then traverse 5 feet left to the anchors. Or, go wherever you wish; you're on top rope.

If people report that this is worthy of turning into a lead climb, I may add bolts (anyone else is free to do so as well). It seemed a little bit squeezed to me (there are better plums to pick in any event), so maybe it's best to just leave it as a top rope -- no need to bolt up every available inch of real estate up here. Aug 3, 2009