Avg: 2.3 from 43 votes
|Type:||Sport, 120 ft (36 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||RMWright, Summer, 2008|
|Page Views:||3,513 total · 22/month|
|Shared By:||Richard M. Wright on Sep 15, 2008|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
P1, 70 feet, 5.10, begins on the ledge above the abondoned marble quarry. Easy climbing to the 5th clip where things get lots smaller and hard to see. Beta: at the 5th clip cut right and then shift back left to a stance above the clip you just passed. The pitch stays tricky until the anchor. I found myself climbing a bit right of clips and then shifting back left a couple of times. Hand holds are hard to see, but every clip should feel stable.
P2, 50 feet, 5.10 has more of the same type of climbing but has been bolted a bit more closely. The first three clips are tricky with inobvious hands, but things ease off significantly after the 4th clip.
The name: anyone who climbs slabs will be damned, particularly by all those mothers who want their childern to grow up as normal and well adjusted human beings.