Avg: 3.2 from 32 votes
|Type:||Sport, 220 ft (67 m), 3 pitches|
|FA:||Richard Wright, Mark Tarrant|
|Page Views:||4,284 total · 25/month|
|Shared By:||Richard M. Wright on Jun 11, 2007|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
P1, 5.11c, 65 feet. Saunter up moderate terrain to a spot below the roof. The roof is negotiated by a powerful, but brief, sequence that dumps you out at a double bolt rap stance.
P2, 5.11b, 85 feet. The second pitch starts out steep and remains overhanging its entire length. The line was intended to stay away from the grungy crack that diverges off left, but if the pump hits it is possible to bail out for a short rest. The upper section is continuous, interesting, and the best pitch on the route. P2 picks out largely excellent rock for its entire length. NB: there is a potentially loose block at the mid point that was not pulled off. It's is very obvious, and there is no reason at all to even touch it. I tried to pull it off by hand, and it would not budge. However, things being what they are at this altitude, it's best to leave it alone and use the jugs on the left. In addition, the block is large enough that some chance exists that it could go all the way to road should it be pulled off.
P3, 5.10b, 70 feet. Follow up the pillar on the right by either laying it back or climbing directly on it. Stem the corner above to a brief crux move. One can rap from the double bolt anchor or climb over the top to a flat seated belay. I placed the top belay, above the rap station, with the thought that there may be some utility in climbing the remaining 100 feet.
Mark Tarrant strung Violet Blue together for the red point FFA, while my bum hip continued to grind away its now useless joint surface.