All Locations > Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Big Thompson Canyon > Mary's Bust Area > Mary's Bust - main buttress
Avg: 3.2 from 27 votes
Routes in Mary's Bust - main buttress
|Broadmoor, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Brown Palace, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Convolution S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Deceiver S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Disneyland T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Dynamite S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R|
|Fool Me Twice T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Frisky Lady S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a|
|Just in Time S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Lie Detector S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Mary's Jugs S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Mary's Tricks S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Maternal Damnation S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Moon Shadow S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|New Direction T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Open Road, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Out Of Time S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Proud Mary S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Stuck In Time S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|There's Something About Mary T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Violet Blue S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Wingardium Leviosa T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Type:||Sport, 220 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Richard Wright, Mark Tarrant|
|Page Views:||3,437 total, 27/month|
|Shared By:||Richard M. Wright on Jun 11, 2007|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionViolet Blue runs up an old aid line on the west face of Mary's Bust just adjacent to the gully that separates the two main crags. The route was installed ground up, solo, and on the lead using hooks and some other related tricks. The original aid start was left alone and may provide a difficult and protectable alternate start. VB consists of three pitches and stops well short of the top of the crag. Rock above the final belay looked unpleasant but could certainly be led safely to the prominent ledge below the final yellow plate that tops out Mary's Bust.
P1, 5.11c, 65 feet. Saunter up moderate terrain to a spot below the roof. The roof is negotiated by a powerful, but brief, sequence that dumps you out at a double bolt rap stance.
P2, 5.11b, 85 feet. The second pitch starts out steep and remains overhanging its entire length. The line was intended to stay away from the grungy crack that diverges off left, but if the pump hits it is possible to bail out for a short rest. The upper section is continuous, interesting, and the best pitch on the route. P2 picks out largely excellent rock for its entire length. NB: there is a potentially loose block at the mid point that was not pulled off. It's is very obvious, and there is no reason at all to even touch it. I tried to pull it off by hand, and it would not budge. However, things being what they are at this altitude, it's best to leave it alone and use the jugs on the left. In addition, the block is large enough that some chance exists that it could go all the way to road should it be pulled off.
P3, 5.10b, 70 feet. Follow up the pillar on the right by either laying it back or climbing directly on it. Stem the corner above to a brief crux move. One can rap from the double bolt anchor or climb over the top to a flat seated belay. I placed the top belay, above the rap station, with the thought that there may be some utility in climbing the remaining 100 feet.
Mark Tarrant strung Violet Blue together for the red point FFA, while my bum hip continued to grind away its now useless joint surface.