Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.


5.10a/b R, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 2.2 from 29 votes
FA: not sure
Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Big Thompson Ca… > Mary's Bust Area > Mary's Bust - main bu…
Warning Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023 DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Peregrine nesting on The Broadmoor! DetailsDrop down


This is an older route described in B. Gillett's "Rocky Mountain National Park" guidebook (2001). The physical crux is surmounting the initial overhanging, quartz ledges, but the mental one is a bit higher with at least 1 significant run-out, on 5.8 or .9 face climbing. This would be a nasty fall, hence the "R" rating.


The route is located about 20' left of "Maternal Damnation", at a significant section of creamy-pink quartz. A 60-meter rope will easily get you down.


The route has 8 protection bolts, and a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Doug just past the opening roof. It felt like we were back in the Gunks for a little while!
[Hide Photo] Doug just past the opening roof. It felt like we were back in the Gunks for a little while!
Crusher following the "run out" section. (It's really not too bad) .
[Hide Photo] Crusher following the "run out" section. (It's really not too bad) .

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Scott Matz
Loveland, CO
[Hide Comment] The first part is easy and not the crux. The crux is hard 9 or maybe 10a on runout face. Eric backed out. I went up to save the gear and ended up down climbing 15 feet of 10a. I thought the route was bolted on lead. Aug 5, 2009
[Hide Comment] I guess you can debate what is "hard" or "easy", depending on your strengths/weaknesses, but what you will need to finish this route is very steady nerves. By no means a "Bachar-Yerian", but injurious fall potential exists here! Aug 10, 2009
Brian Stefanovic
Fort Collins, CO
[Hide Comment] I'm just wondering why there isn't a bolt in that run out section. There is plenty of room for it. It feels as though the closer you get to the next bolt, the harder it gets. Of course, that could just be my nerves. I backed off and also down-climbed about 15ft. Jun 30, 2010
Top Rope Hero
Was Estes Park, now homeless
[Hide Comment] Unless this thing has recently been retro-bolted, then I couldn't for the life of me (literally) find anything remotely "runout" about this line. Anywhere.

Get. A. Sack. Then rope up for Birds of Fire and THEN talk to me about runouts.... Aug 18, 2011
Castle Rock, CO
  5.10b R
[Hide Comment] For the people who say this route has no runout, you're such a stud! I'm also going to add another vote to say there is one bolt that is uncharacteristically runout, compare to the rest of the bolting. The moves getting there is not easy either, and you'll probably hit the blunt arete in line with the last bolt if you peel before clipping the next bolt. Definitely some injury potential there. Apr 8, 2016
Ross Swanson
Pinewood Springs
[Hide Comment] I've swapped pitches on Birds of Fire, and I thought the runout on Dynamite was scary, especially the clip. For me, this rock took some getting use to, it's like the friction you get at Eldo.

We continued to the top on Broadmoor. If you are considering doing that, I'd suggest linking Dynamite with the next pitch of Broadmoor, then you can skip the hanging belay. A 70m will make it. The crux on P6 sneaks up on you. Sep 25, 2016
Fort Collins, CO
[Hide Comment] What a fun, technical climb! The quartz ledges are insanely cool. Got a little off route, left of the bolts at the runout section. A hold blew, well above the bolt, resulting in about a 20 footer. It ended being big, but quite safe, fall. Found the correct way and finished it with a huge grin on my face. Definitely runout, but a good belayer will keep you safe - most likely. Jul 19, 2020
Connor FM
Bowlder, CO
[Hide Comment] Not sure if bolts were added, but this is very well-protected. No idea where the 'R' rating came from unless it had half the amount of bolts it does now. Jun 8, 2024