5.11+,
Sport, 135 ft (41 m),
Avg: 2 from 1
vote
FA: Mike Caldwell
Colorado
> Estes Park Valley
> Big Thompson Ca…
> Mary's Bust Area
> Mary's Bust - main bu…
Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023
Details
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Access Issue: Peregrine nesting on The Broadmoor!
Details
Per Kurtz: there are nesting peregrine falcons on The Broadmoor. Please climb elsewhere!
Description
This is a very sustained techy face. There are no 5.12 moves, but there are not many under 5.11 either. It is probably only .11+ but very continuous. It has good movement on okay rock that should clean up with more traffic. We had an 80m rope, and I reached the anchors at the halfway mark, but the route angles quite a bit, and the ground rises to the right, so you should be able to get down with a 70m. Your belayer may need to scramble up to the ledge below the first bolt though. Be sure to knot the ends!
Scramble up to the ledge below the first bulge, and clip a bolt. Pull the bulge, then angle up and right then back left to another ledge. Clip a bolt, pull another bulge, and diagonal right under a third bulge to the base of a water groove. Head up the groove to a stance on a pedestal, take a well deserved rest, then make the final crux moves up and right to a bolt, and head up to the anchors.