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Routes in Linger Longer Rock

Central Groove T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Compressor Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
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Access Issue: Private Property - may not be open Details

Description

Linger Longer Rock has a generally sunny, south-facing face 20 feet from road side. The rock is solid granite, pink in nature.

Getting There

Take US Highway 34 west of Drake about 1 mile, it is on the North side of the road. There is a large parking area at roadside directly across the road from 2-3 small, brown cabins with a sign that says "linger longer".

L->R:

A. Left Crack, 8 R, 1p, 105', gear & pin.
B. Compressor, 9, 1p, 105', bolts.
C1. Central Groove, 7 R, 1p, 105', gear.
C2D. variation, 10 R/X, 105', gear.
D. Right Crack, 7, 1p, gear.

3 Total Climbs

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Lew, the owner, John, lives at the cabin only in Aug and Sep of the year. Actually he is a way cool guy that enjoys watching people climb on his rock. 'We climbed there yesterday and he offered us coffees, water, and the restroom if we needed it. His only beef is that someone bolted the rock without asking him. If you climb there, he is cool with it. If he is there, take a moment to chat with him, and he will be your buddy, just ask before bolting. Allen, oh, a side note, the huge rock formation east of his cabin on the other side of the road "is not his" and those land owners apparantly don't want to share their land, so beware if you climb there. Sep 10, 2007
jbarnum
Denver, CO
jbarnum   Denver, CO
Lew,

I climbed this the other day with Al Simons. It actually is on private land and owned by the people across the street. They are not at all opposed to climbers on their property. They are however upset that someone would bolt and not ask permission. From across the street, the shiny new bolts beam like diamonds in the sun. As far as I know, it still up in the air as to who bolted the line.

The owners are lovely people and even invited Al and myself over for coffee before giving it a go. They are not opposed to climbing on THEIR rock, all they ask is for a kind word and respect for their land. The rock does yield a couple of lines on top rope, and there is enough room off the road to be safe.

As to the demeanor of the owners, they left the gate open for us to use the bathroom while they went into Estes to visit friends. Friends of climbers they are, and we should make every attempt to preserve this relationship. Sep 10, 2007
kyle kingrey
Loveland
kyle kingrey   Loveland
I am told by John and his wife Jeri...(she is actually the landowner) this cabin has been in her family for 6 generations. Her grandfather was one of the first doctors in Loveland. Last name was Wright. Their cabin is called 'Roughin' it Wright.' John and Jeri's last name is Ruff.
Anyway....they have informed me that they would like to see the bolts painted to better match the rock and to have at least the one bolt nearest the smiley face crack removed. The smiley face is located towards the bottom part of the route. I believe the bolt in question is bolt #3.
I think this is a minor request that could easily be accomodated. Sep 11, 2007
Hangers are now painted, although not to my satisfaction, but they are much harder to see. I'll finish the job soon. Al Oct 20, 2007
I have been told that there is an update on the ownership of this property. The owner now in control of this private property does not want climbers accessing the property, as she has concerns about liability for anyone climbing on the property. She asked that climbers please stay off the property at this time. Jul 17, 2017

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