GPS: 40.002, -105.413 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 42,698 total · 169/month
Shared By: Michael Komarnitsky on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / 2021 Update - reopening Details

Description

This is a relatively newly bolted crag just east of Practice Rock. Somebody went bolt-crazy on this rock, but the result is very well-protected routes. It's a steep dihedral; the east face is a solid slab, while the west face feels inverted and a little more crumbly. With a 60m rope, there's a great belay station with a nice rock as a bench. This is section contains the bulk of the routes on this crag.

The following routes are on Main Crag of Bowling Alley, about 75 yards before Practice Rock. L->R:

A. Lucky Strike, 11, 1p, 100', bolts.
B. Frothing Green, 11-, 1p, 105', bolts
C. Next To Nothing, 12, 2p, 105', bolts.
D. Amazing Face, 12+, 2p, 105', bolts.
E. Meteor Roadblock, 12, 1p, 55', bolts.
F1. Super Bon Bon, 12, 1p, 55', bolts.
F2. Shiny Dog, 12+, 1p, 50', bolts.
G. Taking The Termites Bowling, 11, 1p, 45', bolts.

Above a ledge half-way up:

AA. P2 of Next To Nothing, 12, 1p, bolts.
BB. continuation of Amazing Face, 12+, 1p, bolts.
CC. Bloodstone, 11, 1p, 55', bolts.
DD. Oil Pan Hook Shot, 11-, 1p, 50', bolts.
EE. Singin' in the Rain, 10, 1p, 60', bolts.
FF. Bowling Ball And Chain, 10-, 1p, 50', bolts.

Down and R:

H. Digital Divide, 10+, 1p, 40', bolts.
I. Midge Squadron, 11, 1p, 90', bolts.
J. Bad Girls Get Spanked, 11, 1p, 90',bolts.
K. Pooky Proof, 7+, 1p, 105', gear.
L. Mosquito Burrito, 8 or 9, 1p, 105', bolts.
M. Chihuahua Enchilada, 10+ R, 1p, gear.

Getting There

At 8.1 miles from the entrance to Boulder Canyon (the first bridge you cross - see Yahoo! map) there is a small turn off. It's on the right side, just below practice rock, about 300 yards past Boulder falls. The crag is about 50 yards east and 30 yards up the hill from the parking lot.

20 Total Climbs

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Location: Main Crag Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Main Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 73
Pooky Proof
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 224
Mosquito Burrito
Sport, TR
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 112
Bad Girls Get Spanked
Sport, TR
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 64
Midge Squadron
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 79
Meteor Rhoadblock
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 20
Next to Nothing
Sport 2 pitches
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 8
Super Bon Bon
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 31
Amazing Face
Sport 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Pooky Proof
 73
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Mosquito Burrito
 224
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR
Bad Girls Get Spanked
 112
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, TR
Midge Squadron
 64
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Meteor Rhoadblock
 79
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Next to Nothing
 20
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport 2 pitches
Super Bon Bon
 8
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Amazing Face
 31
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport 2 pitches
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