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Routes in Main Crag

Amazing Face S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bad Girls Get Spanked S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bloodstone T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bowling Ball and Chain S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chihuahua Enchilada T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Digital Divide T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Frothing Green S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gutter Ball T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lucky Strike S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Meteor Rhoadblock S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Midge Squadron S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mosquito Burrito S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Next to Nothing S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Oil Pan Hook Shot S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pooky Proof T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shiny Dog S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Singin' in the Rain T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Super Bon Bon S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Take the Termites Bowling S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Woody's Landlord T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details


This is a relatively newly bolted crag just east of Practice Rock. Somebody went bolt-crazy on this rock, but the result is very well-protected routes. It's a steep dihedral; the east face is a solid slab, while the west face feels inverted and a little more crumbly. With a 60m rope, there's a great belay station with a nice rock as a bench. This is section contains the bulk of the routes on this crag.

The following routes are on Main Crag of Bowling Alley, about 75 yards before Practice Rock. L->R:

A. Lucky Strike, 11, 1p, 100', bolts.
B. Frothing Green, 11-, 1p, 105', bolts
C. Next To Nothing, 12, 2p, 105', bolts.
D. Amazing Face, 12+, 2p, 105', bolts.
E. Meteor Roadblock, 12, 1p, 55', bolts.
F1. Super Bon Bon, 12, 1p, 55', bolts.
F2. Shiny Dog, 12+, 1p, 50', bolts.
G. Taking The Termites Bowling, 11, 1p, 45', bolts.

Above a ledge half-way up:

AA. P2 of Next To Nothing, 12, 1p, bolts.
BB. continuation of Amazing Face, 12+, 1p, bolts.
CC. Bloodstone, 11, 1p, 55', bolts.
DD. Oil Pan Hook Shot, 11-, 1p, 50', bolts.
EE. Singin' in the Rain, 10, 1p, 60', bolts.
FF. Bowling Ball And Chain, 10-, 1p, 50', bolts.

Down and R:

H. Digital Divide, 10+, 1p, 40', bolts.
I. Midge Squadron, 11, 1p, 90', bolts.
J. Bad Girls Get Spanked, 11, 1p, 90',bolts.
K. Pooky Proof, 7+, 1p, 105', gear.
L. Mosquito Burrito, 8 or 9, 1p, 105', bolts.
M. Chihuahua Enchilada, 10+ R, 1p, gear.

Getting There

At 8.1 miles from the entrance to Boulder Canyon (the first bridge you cross - see Yahoo! map) there is a small turn off. It's on the right side, just below practice rock, about 300 yards past Boulder falls. The crag is about 50 yards east and 30 yards up the hill from the parking lot.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Main Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
Is this named the Bowling Alley because of the car noise? (Bowling alleys are loud.) It's extremely loud and distracting. It made communication hard at times even though we were only about 60-80 feet apart. Jan 11, 2003
I was climbing here a couple of weeks ago on that unnamed 5.9 that's only 3 bolts. I was toproping, and as I went to clean the route, I pulled a pretty big chunk of rock off right below the anchors. I don't know for certain if it compromised the integrity of the anchors, but I didn't trust it much (since I was up there!). It wasn't that the anchors were going or anything, but it was scary how easily I yanked off that big chunk. It just makes me wonder a bit about the rock that the anchors are drilled in to. I'm no rock master or anything, but I would suggest either not climbing it at all, and if you absolutely have to, then don't toprope it and rap off the anchors when you clean it. I'm probably being overly cautious here, and I'm sure it's probably fine, but I would feel awful if people didn't at least know about it and something did happen. Sorry to post as an "anonymous coward!" I don't have much time to set up a name. Jun 3, 2005

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