Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Vampire Rock

A.C.E. S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blood Doll S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bureau (Pitch 1), The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Chupacabra T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Climb-Eye-Knight S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crack of Desperation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fear of Sunlight S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Good, The Bad, and The Jacked, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heart of the Narrows S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Le Stat S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Monkey's Sister S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Monkey's Uncle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pin Cushion S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Politician, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stage Fright T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
That's Weak S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trash It and Move On T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Vampire, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wanker S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 350 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Bob Horan, Richard Rossiter and Chule Lee, 1996
Page Views: 395 total, 3/month
Shared By: Aeon Aki on Jun 15, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


32 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

P1 (5.10). Start below the gully 50 feet left of That's Weak. Climb the gully to a blunt buttress and the first bolt. Climb the buttress then step right and go up to a good ledge with an overhang. Pull the overhang and continue to the anchor. Unclipping the rope from the bolt left of the ledge helps reduce rope drag if you plan on linking into pitch 2. This can be done safely by clipping the bolt at the step roof then moving back down to unclip.

P2 (5.12). From the anchors for pitch 1, angle up and right along the slab ramp to the base of the gold-streaked headwall. Climb straight up the increasingly difficult face using small crimps and edges to a 2 bolt anchor. The position is spectacular and climbing is stellar though the crux is short-lived.

A 70m rope will get you all the way back to the ground from the top of pitch 2 if you don't continue to the final pitches.

More info coming as soon as I get my ass up there....

Protection

P1: 7 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.
P2: 5 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.
First pitch gets a bomb rating, poor bolting and contrived. May 16, 2017
acouncell
Estes Park, CO
acouncell   Estes Park, CO
Scott's right, that bolt near the top of pitch one is poorly placed right at the edge of the roof, so your carbiner gets loaded over the edge. Best to link pitches 1 & 2 as one. Third pitch is barely 5th class, but the fourth pitch is good. Pitch 4 is a lot of 5.10 climbing with a very stout crux move (for me). But it's good, safe and fun.
Bring a few small to medium cams to build an anchor at the base of pitch 4 to give an adequate belay. Two raps to the ground with a 70m. May 24, 2012
What would anyone rate P1? I thought it is harder 10. I think it's worth doing, and the roof is really fun. Nice new anchor at the top, thanks!! Sep 3, 2009
SAL
broomdigiddy
  5.12a
SAL   broomdigiddy
  5.12a
Unacceptable time frame for beta.
I call shinannigans!!!

Choss monkey...
muuuhahahahahahah Jul 15, 2008
Aeon Aki    
 
Patience young grass smoker. More info is on the way... Jul 15, 2008
SAL
broomdigiddy
  5.12a
SAL   broomdigiddy
  5.12a
Who the hell posts a route with 4 pitches and then only informs users of two of them????

Wassup Aki???
;)

P3 did not look attractive to me. P2 on this route is super sweet. Good rock, solid holds and perty colors. Jul 10, 2008
The belay at the top of the first pitch consisted of one 3/8" Rawl five-piece bolt and two old, 1/4" bolts. Ron Olsen and I removed the two 1/4" bolts and added a 3/8" SS Rawl five piece bolt. We added quick links and chains to replace the slings for rappel.

The hardware for this work was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association (www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support. Oct 13, 2005
I know this is the first pitch of a longer route, but standing alone, this pitch is a pile with a poorly placed bolt at the roof. Jun 28, 2005