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Routes in Main Crag

Amazing Face S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bad Girls Get Spanked S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bloodstone T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bowling Ball and Chain S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chihuahua Enchilada T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Digital Divide T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Frothing Green S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gutter Ball T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lucky Strike S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Meteor Rhoadblock S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Midge Squadron S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mosquito Burrito S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Next to Nothing S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Oil Pan Hook Shot S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pooky Proof T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shiny Dog S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Singin' in the Rain T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Super Bon Bon S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Take the Termites Bowling S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Woody's Landlord T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Sport, TR
FA: Dan Hare, November 1998
Page Views: 5,834 total · 28/month
Shared By: Michael Komarnitsky on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Leo Paik, John McNamee

You & This Route


78 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description [Edit]

This is as great route. Belay from under the obvious tree. Scramble up the class 4 to the base of the left face. Follow the crack up and right. Cool move onto the ledge about 15 feet off the ground. Stand on the ledge and follow the vertical crack up to the horizontal slash (crux) then up and right to the undercling. Another badass move on this route is the static move to the undercling. (Note: A big hold below the undercling is off limits. See red dot.) Layback to the ledge, then climb the left of two cracks up to the bolts.

Protection [Edit]

8 bolts to a 2 chain anchor. The bolts are about 10 feet below the summit. You can rappel down, or throw some shorter slings around the pinnacle and belay from there. Note: a 60m rope is recommended for this route. It's possible with a 50m, but it is not as comfortable.

Warning [Edit]

The big flake moves. Don't yard on it!

Photos

A very sustained route with a lot of 5.11 moves. Some of the clips are difficult, but overall it is well protected. Be solid on 5.11 before leading this one. Jun 5, 2001
Quinn Stevens
Denver, CO
Quinn Stevens   Denver, CO
I don't think one could argue that traversing right to the crack undercling and sidepull is off. However, it's pretty fun and interesting to climb the majority of this route just left of the crack system. Jul 9, 2001
Jeff Lockyer
Canmore, AB
Jeff Lockyer   Canmore, AB
Myke, et al., about the 5.11 rating you give this climb: I don't agree with it at all. There is very little chance someone not strong on 11s would get this route on the onsight, which I assume is NOT what you grade routes at. Once you have done the route 30 times, surely it gets easier, but by no means is this 11, a solid 11b, with several 5.11 moves in the mix. As for traversing to the underclings, it surely does ease the climbing, but overal maybe by a letter or 2 at most. Oct 1, 2001
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
This felt much easier than 5.11c, 11a sounds closer. If you avoid the obvious undercling then the line might go at 5.11c. But this appears to be seldom done with the flake and undercling at hand's reach. Nov 13, 2001
TBD
TBD  
Good route. There is another 11 to the left of this route that is a little easier but even more fun, IMO. May 14, 2002
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10d
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10d
I got on this last night (6/6/02) and it was seeping water from the seams. And that was running down onto the footholds....

So yeah- it felt darn hard.

I'm surprised this gets 2-stars, but maybe if it dries out, I'd see it in a better light and like it. Jun 7, 2002
Wow man.... sick route if yall havent been herre try it out it is an amazing climb and view. keep climbing those boulders. Sep 25, 2003
One of the clips up high (2nd to last I believe) is a tough clip. I downclimbed to a decent stance and looked at the body position again before doing it. Nice route Dan. Sep 27, 2004
Kat A
Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Kat A   Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
This is a fun route, it's probably easier for people with small fingers. It's a bit scary when using the undercling flake, since it moves as you pull on it. And clipping the bolt higher up on this flake you can hear a hollow sound.... Mar 9, 2009
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
 
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
 
This was a really fun route with cool movement. Moving past the undercling will allow you to feel the pump! I sat on the ledge about 15 feet above the undercling to shake it out for a few minutes. I onsighted it, and have not done very many 11s, so I would guess low 11. Maybe after I've done a few more I will rate the grade. If you're in the area do it! Apr 30, 2009
prod. Kenny
Boulder, Co
 
prod. Kenny   Boulder, Co
 
Did this last night and thought that the route is pretty solid 11 a/b. The pic shows a zag to the right below the undercling, I went straight up the seam then stepped over to the undercling. Pretty thin climbing here, could warrant the 11c that it is rated in the guidebook for a short person. Sep 6, 2012
Moritz B.
  5.11b
Moritz B.  
  5.11b
I didn´t know about the moving flake when I climbed this today for the first time. When I fully grabbed the flake and felt how it was moving, I got a little sketched out.
The flake will go eventually. Don´t yank (outwards) on it. Fun route! Aug 15, 2013
Rui Ferreira
Boulder, CO
  5.11c
Rui Ferreira   Boulder, CO
  5.11c
From the large horizontal at the second/third bolt, is it possible to face climb straight up and left (avoiding the crack) in order to avoid the hollow flake altogether. An easy hand rail traverse then gets you back right to the bolt above the flake. This bumps the grade up but is a safer variation. Sep 12, 2016
Izzy K.
Boulder, CO
Izzy K.   Boulder, CO
The FLAKE HAS GOTTA GO!

Down to help but not sure how to go about it....

It's completely chalked up and clearly being used A LOT. Nov 24, 2016

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