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Routes in Cadillac Crag

Auburn Court T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Auburn Lane T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Face S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Brand New Cadillac S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Bro'd Less Traveled, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Deviant T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Easy Street T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Emission Control T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Escalade T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Evening Stroll T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flash Cadillac TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Ghetto Cruiser T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Gonzo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Heartbreaker [aka Never Cry Wolf] T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Highway Of Ra T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Highway of Diamonds T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ichiban Arete T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Land of Ra T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Let it Vee T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Midnight Trundler T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Moonlight Drive T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Shallow Dihedral T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Stargate T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Trail of Tears S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Twistoflex T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Untitled, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
V3 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
You're Ugly and Your Mother Dresses You Funny T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 135 ft
FA: Steve Levin, Dougald MacDonald, David Goldstein
Page Views: 912 total, 8/month
Shared By: Dougald MacDonald on Feb 17, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This long, varied, and challenging pitch climbs the south side of Fin 1, following the crack and corner line left of Ghetto Cruiser. A hard move over an overhang at the low point of Fin 1 gains a fun finger and hand crack. Step left at the end of the crack and climb a slab to the base of an overhang with an old piton anchor. Clip this with a very long sling, step back right, and stem a shallow corner and ramp. Mantel onto a good hold at the top of the ramp, place small to medium cams in a bomber slot, then do a hard move up and left, along a square-cut corner, to reach good wires and the top of the prominent flake system. Hand-traverse the wide flakes to finish in the chimney slot of Ghetto Cruiser.

This route has many 5.9 and 5.10 moves, with mostly good pro. There are short run-outs on the slab below the roof, on the upper ramp, and on the crux above the end of the ramp.

Protection

A full Eldo rack, with emphasis on small cams and small wires, including RPs, plus at least one big piece (No. 3 to 4 Camalot) for the final flakes. A blue Alien or equivalent is very useful in the ramp section. Be careful to adequately extend any runners placed left of the main line or under roofs to reduce rope drag and prevent any danger from sharp edges. Double ropes might be useful.

Photos

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Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10d PG13
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10d PG13
A very good climb that needed a little more cleaning. I inadvertently gave it just that. A handhold snapped and in the course of trying to recover my balance, I sheared off a delicate foothold & took a pretty good fall. Joseffa broke a loose one off following, too. The resulting edges are better than the originals, and this was well below the crux, so the grade was not effected.
The worst pro on the route is a "good" #1 RP next to a blue Alien in a so-so horizontal. This protects against what might otherwise be a long and dangerous fall from the crux. Then a 1.5-2" cam may be placed in the middle of the crux, which I actually found to be a bit powerful, but on good enough holds so as to be easier than the climbing down lower where the less comforting gear was.
After pulling the last roof/bulge (big moves on good holds) you get run-out quite a bit unless you take a #4 Camalot for behind the big flake up top. Beware that if you climb the flake on the outside (lie-back style) that the top right section of it is detached, so don't pull too had unless you want to take a big fall.
Past the flake you can run it clear to the top for a nearly 200' single pitch.

One of the best things about it is its 'improbability' as the book puts it. The climb keeps looking like it will get very hard or impossible, but at each critical juncture gives you just enough of something to keep it 5.10.

Overall, the route was modestly rated for quality by the FA party. It is fun moves on interesting rock and deserves at least 3 stars. May 1, 2010