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Routes in 2nd Meat Wall

At Your Cervix T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Bacon in the Sun T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Boss Hog T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Butcher's Dog T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Camping Under the Influence T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Carnivore T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Cube Steaks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
End Of The Line T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Evening Ecstacy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Extra Lean T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Family Home Night T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Gouge On It T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Green Eggs & Ham T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hot Pork Sundae T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Humble Pie T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Idaho Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Low Cholesterol T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mad Cows T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Meat Machine T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Meat Your Maker T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Meat ya later T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Meating Jesus T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Mouse Meat T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Nerve Damage T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ninja Bedwetter T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pastafarian, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Pleased To Meat You T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Potato, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Samarai Loving T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sesh One Cooking T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Smell the Meat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Soylent Green T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Swedish meat balls T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sweet Meats T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Switch, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
T-Bones Tonight T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tofu Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Top Sirloin T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tube Steaks Tomorrow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Two Timer T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Two Timer II T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Unknown R of Tube Steaks T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown long corner T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown wideness to RF tight hands flake T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unnamed blocky corner to hands splitter T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: ??
Page Views: 1,434 total, 11/month
Shared By: Tony B on Mar 19, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

A good pitch with lots of variety. This climb requires 2 ropes to get down from.
Not far left of Tofu Crack the wall is light in color and sports a few more lines not in Bloom's Book. The right most of these has a plaque labeled "Mouse Meat 5.10+" which seemed accurate enough. The climb starts vertical and goes to slightly less than vertical in a decent crack system, though it is not the typical Windgate varnished brown patina of the area. Climb 150' to a bolted anchor and rap on 2 ropes. There is a no-hands rest about 40' up that a TR climber can sit in for a "switch" of the belay if you have tied two 70m ropes together to do that.

Location

The next obvious handcrack system left of Tofu Crack but right of the twin cracks of 'Even Ecstacy 5.9+' and the unnamed left-facing flake route. The wall is a tawny blonde here and not the typical Indian Creek brown varnish.

Protection

2 ropes plus a variety rack.
It can be protected will with a double or triple set of cams to 3" and a few large nuts. The bottom of the climb is the real crux (1.5"-2" cams) at a bulge and the rock is less solid, and the top is a crux at perhaps .75" cams.
The less straight forward nature of the protection on the bottom of the pitch make it non-ideal for a Indian Creek newbie.
Adam Fleming
Dillon, CO
  5.10+
Adam Fleming   Dillon, CO
  5.10+
NOT PG13. A purple metolius/bd .2 fits perfectly at the crux, though a .75 is not far below. A small nut could work alright if you don't have cams that small. Jul 11, 2017
Devin Fin
DURANGO
Devin Fin   DURANGO
this thing love's the nut's like a porn star ... get on it an climb a long creek pitch on all passive gear.... Aug 31, 2012
Gaar
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Gaar   Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
NOT PG13, Not even PG May 17, 2012
doligo  
This route can go entirely on passives. Small nuts are way more helpful, IMO. Questionable rock in some spots. Apr 25, 2012
Didn't think this route was PG-13, probably due to the fact that I was able to get quite a few bomber C3 placements in. Oct 19, 2010